Syrah & Shiraz
Vintage image sourced on Pinterest
Syrah, Shiraz, tomato, tom-ah-to. Whichever name you give it, it’s a grape variety that makes some of the world’s greatest (and in my totally biased opinion, sexiest) wines.
The thing is, I’m a total sucker for a great nose on a wine. I was the kind of teen who lifted the lid to sniff every single candle in the White Barn Candle Co. store in the mall, even though I had zero intention of buying anything. Drugstore shampoos and body lotions, melons in the grocery store, even cleaning products all needed to pass my sniff tests as a young adult. I haven’t changed a bit, so it’s not at all surprising that sticking my nose into wine glasses is an activity endlessly entertains me.
Even if you reserve your sniffing for more “normal” activities like perfume or cologne shopping and cooking, I encourage you to let yourself abandon all self-consciousness about your wine expertise (or lack thereof) and to just stick your noses deep into these glasses of Syrah and Shiraz to experience how incredibly fascinating these aromatic red wines can be.
Stuff to know
Syrah is originally from southeastern France, around the Rhône, though there are stories floating around about Syrah having origins in ancient Persia, since the grape variety goes by Shiraz in Australia and occasionally elsewhere, too. Shiraz may have been a medieval capital in Persia, but there is no connection with the red grape variety we know and love today.
Syrah’s DNA analysis revealed that it’s related to Pinot Noir, Viognier and Mondeuse Noire, and what I like to take away from that is the fact that Syrah and its relations all have one of my favorite things in a wine: big aromatics. Syrah (and Shiraz) wines, like Pinot Noirs, have some of the most mesmerizing noses of any wines on the market. Sniff your way through them and please tell me if you disagree.
In the Northern Rhône, Syrah’s spiritual home, the wines showcasing Syrah go by appellation names like Hermitage, Côte-Rôtie and Cornas. In some of the Northern Rhône appellations, Syrah is co-fermented with Viognier, which stabilizes the wines’ color, alters the texture and tannins and adds even more aromatic lift. Others focus on 100% Syrah and let the solo grape tell its own story.
Unlike Pinot Noir, Syrah can be a solid blending partner. In the Southern Rhône, Syrah is typically blended with other varieties like Grenache and Mourvèdre. Americans making wines with similar blends often go by the moniker Rhône Rangers. In South Africa, Syrah occasionally makes it into Red Cape Blends, too. But in this tasting, we’re focusing on the wines around the world that single out Syrah.
France might be Syrah’s spiritual home, but Australia is home to the oldest Shiraz vines in the world. The grape variety that has been planted for more than 200 years down under was once primarily used to make blended fortified reds. As tastes changed, Shiraz lost its fashionability, and it took a few pioneers like Max Schubert at Penfolds and Eric Purbrick at Tahblik to bring Australian Shiraz to international prominence. Yellow Tail and other “critter wines’” outrageous success in the 80s and 90s made Australian Shiraz world-famous, while at the same time, Robert Parker handed out 100-point scores to the biggest, ripest Shiraz wines at the higher end of the quality range. For better and worse, Australian became synonymous with huge, ripe, high-alcohol Shiraz. Inexpensive critter-style wines are still produced, as are expensively ripe blockbusters, but there is a whole range of styles in between too, and many, many wines that are astoundingly delicious.
Nevertheless, Australia created a style that is now associated with the word “Shiraz,” such that when that word is used on a label in the United States or South Africa, it’s a good indication that the wine is on the ripe, fruity, bold and on the prominent oak side of things stylistically. When winemakers in these countries use the word “Syrah,” it’s a signal that they’re aiming more toward a Northern Rhône-style of wine, with more savory character, less ripeness, more acidity and less prominent oak.
It’s worth noting that in some parts of the world, particularly Australia and New Zealand, screw caps are more common than corks for these wines. In others, like France and the United States, wines with screw caps are often seen as being cheaper or poorer quality. Please ignore that stereotype. It’s simply not true, and there are many excellent Shiraz and Syrah wines bottled with screw caps.
What to look for in this tasting
In the Northern Rhône, where Syrah’s French origins are celebrated best, Syrah wines lean toward savory, wild, almost feral flavors. They’re elegant, but also a bit dirty. They smell good in the way truffles do, both addictive and slightly repulsive. Words like bacon fat, game, leather, sweat, bonfire, pepper, barnyard and blood will often pop up when discussing the scents of these wines. That said, there are plenty of Northern Rhône wines for which more “typical” wine descriptor terms are used, like black cherries, blackberries, Herbes de Provence, milk chocolate, smoke and Kalamata olives. Personally, I find the wild, feral wines fascinatingly attractive, but if the sound of that style of wine doesn’t appeal to you, just ask your local retailer to direct you toward a more fruit-forward style.
As for the rest of the world, I like to think of the many, many styles of Syrah as if they exist on a continuum, from the lean, wild Northern Rhône to the most bombastic, ripe and lush Australian Shiraz. And if you’ve only ever tried Yellow Tail Shiraz, just know that there are incredibly high quality and complex ripe Australian Shiraz wines, too. The quality spectrum is just as broad as it is for Cabernet Sauvignon in the United States, since Shiraz is still Australia’s best-known variety. Australian Shiraz today isn’t just one thing, but the wines will still consistently show ripeness that just isn’t possible in the Northern Rhône. Australian Shiraz will generally be more fruit-forward with softer tannins, higher alcohol levels and bolder flavors overall. The biggest, boldest wines tend to use new American oak barrels with heavier toasts for aging, but there are also plenty of producers who choose to show more stylistic restraint. In between the most classic Northern Rhônes and Australian Shiraz is a whole world of options.
The wines
#1: Northern Rhône Syrah
The Northern Rhône is where Syrah gets its spotlight. Syrah is planted widely throughout the Rhône, but in the north, where just 5% of the Rhône’s total wine production is made, Syrah gets to claim its solo. Occasionally, Syrah will have a co-star or two, since white grapes like Viognier are allowed to be blended into the wines in some appellations, but for the most part, these wines are 100% Syrah.
In the northernmost reaches of the Rhône region, vineyards are shockingly steep, some with hand-built stone walls carefully holding back threats of erosion. Just walking in these vineyards is a workout. The slopes are a critical part of the terroir though, since it can get cold and windy this far north, about 170 miles (270 km) north from the Mediterranean, so these rocky slopes maximize every bit of sunshine and warmth, allowing Syrah to ripen in most vintages. This is arguably where the world’s best Syrah wines are made.
Northern Rhône Syrah wines tend to be more savory than fruity, which can be a surprise if you’ve only tried fruit-forward wines, which is a distinct possibility if you grew up in the United States and started with domestic wines, like me. These wines are usually medium-bodied, with high acidity and chalky tannins, making them quite versatile food-wise, but the best part, in my opinion, is the wild range of flavors. Scents like blackberry, black plum, blueberry, milk chocolate, rosemary, thyme, sage and olives bring the Mediterranean to mind, but then there are the wilder flavors, like bacon fat, tobacco, smoky campfire, black pepper, blood and even barnyard that you might find seductively intriguing or just a bit too savage, depending on your tastes. Only you can decide what you prefer.
What to ask for: A Northern Rhône Syrah, preferably 100% Syrah, from an appellation like Hermitage, Crozes-Hermitage, Côte-Rôtie, Cornas or Saint-Joseph
Alternative(s): Stick with a Northern Rhône Syrah
#2: Australian Shiraz
Australia, home to the world’s oldest Shiraz (AKA Syrah) vines, has its own world-famous style, completely different from the Northern Rhône. While Syrah vines in the Northern Rhône are planted on steep slopes to maximize sunshine and warmth, just barely ripening in time, in Australian regions like Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale, Shiraz is intentionally planted at higher altitudes or where ocean effects moderate warmth to avoid over-ripened grapes. Australian Shiraz is known for its ripe fruit, full body, rich concentration and plush, soft tannins. Classic producers like Penfolds, Torbreck, d’Arenburg and Yalumba make wines that burst with jammy, dark fruit and flavors from oak aging like vanilla, sweet tobacco and leather.
There are producers in cooler regions like the Eden Valley or Yarra Valley where stylistically, things lean more toward French restraint. Less prominent oak, higher acidity and sometimes freshness from whole bunch fermentation characterize some of these Shiraz wines, though they’re still usually full-bodied and velvety. Producers like Clonakilla, Mayer, Tahbilk, Leeuwin and Luke Lambert are known for making these styles of Australian Shiraz.
What to ask for: Ask by name
Alternative(s): Stick with an Australian Shiraz
#3: New Zealand Syrah
New Zealand, like Australia, has had Syrah vines since the mid-1800s, and they were mostly used to make fortified reds. In the 1980s, Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc began its march toward global dominance, and some of New Zealand’s other wines, like its Syrah, have been left out of the spotlight. Just like New Zealand Pinot Noir, Syrah in New Zealand leans more toward the French style, hence the use of “Syrah” instead of “Shiraz,” like its Trans-Tasman neighbor.
Most Syrah plantings are on the North Island, around Auckland and Hawke’s Bay, where the maritime climate tends to be more temperate than it is on the South Island, allowing sufficient warmth to ripen the grapes. New Zealand Syrah wines tend to be more fruit-forward than those from the Northern Rhône, but they’re still cooler-climate wines that usually have medium body, higher acidity and pure fruit flavors like black plum and black raspberry complemented by fresh herbs and black pepper.
What to ask for: Ask by name
Alternative(s): Stick with a Syrah from New Zealand
#4: American Syrah
If France and Australia are two ends on a Syrah-Shiraz style continuum, American Syrahs dot themselves along the span in between, as the names themselves will attest, since some producers use “Syrah,” and others use “Shiraz” to indicate which end they’re aiming toward.
Despite many producers’ efforts, American Syrah has never had the spotlight in the way that Cabernet Sauvignon or Pinot Noir has. Don’t let that deter you though. One of my husband’s all-time favorite wines is an American Syrah, and I like his taste. One cult producer, Sine Qua Non, has broken through Syrah’s underdog status in creating their nearly impossible-to-get wines, but for the most part, outside the spotlight, American Syrahs remain relatively affordable.
California, as America’s largest wine-producing state, has the majority of Syrah plantings in regions like Santa Barbara, Sonoma, the Central Coast and Paso Robles, though producers in the border regions between Washington and Oregon, around Columbia Valley’s Yakima and Walla Walla valleys are also making standout Syrah. On the East Coast, regions in New York like the Finger Lakes and Long Island are producing cool-climate Syrahs too.
American Syrah (or Shiraz) can be ripe, concentrated and dark-fruited with a full body, high tannin levels and prominent oak, but it can also be just-ripe, with higher acidity, a medium body, moderate tannins and subtle oak, sometimes with freshness from whole cluster fermentation or lifted aromas from co-fermentation with Viognier. Most American Syrah wines will be more fruit-forward than they are in France, regardless of where they land on the continuum. In general, if the wine label says “Shiraz,” the wine will likely be of the extra-ripe variety, but for all of the wines labeled “Syrah,” it isn’t exactly easy to know what you’re going to get stylistically. Ask your local retailer for help if you know that you tend to prefer one style more than the other.
What to ask for: Ask by name
Alternative(s): Ask for an American Syrah or Shiraz
#5: South African Syrah
South Africa is a wine region that straddles the line between “New” and “Old World” style-wise, so it’s not surprising that the Syrah and Shiraz wines here span the range of styles, too. Unlike the US, where Syrah holds an underdog status behind other reds like Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and Zinfandel, in South Africa, only Cabernet Sauvignon is planted more often than Syrah amongst red grape varieties. Syrah grapes are also often blended with South Africa’s own Pinotage and Bordeaux varieties to make popular Red Cape blends like The Chocolate Block.
South Africa’s regions each have their own distinct character, and there are warmer and cooler-climate styles being made all over South Africa. In general, if a wine is labeled “Shiraz,” it will likely lean more toward the ripe, plush, full-bodied Australian side of the style spectrum, and if the label says “Syrah,” it will likely lean toward the medium-bodied, higher acidity, just-ripe side of the style spectrum. That said, there is a lot of variation in between, and South Africa has its own New/Old World style that’s difficult to pinpoint blind but often offers the best of both worlds.
What to ask for: Ask by name
Alternative(s): Stick with a South African Syrah or Shiraz
#6: Chilean Syrah
In the world’s longest, thinnest country, bordered by the Atacama Desert, the Andes, the Pacific Ocean and Patagonian glaciers, European grapevines have been planted since the mid-1800s. Chile’s natural borders allowed the country to remain relatively isolated, so that the country never experienced the phylloxera epidemic that ravaged the rest of the wine world. However, unlike in Australia and New Zealand, where Syrah has been planted since day one grapevine-wise, Chilean winemakers didn’t start paying attention to Syrah’s potential until the mid-90s. Since then, plantings have significantly increased, since the wines’ quality and great value have quickly drawn international attention.
Chilean winemakers tend to use the French word, Syrah, and the style of most Chilean Syrah wines leans more toward the French style, too. In regions like the Limarí, Elqui, Casablanca and San Antonio Valleys, with cooler climates, the wines are medium-bodied with higher acidity and pure black fruit flavors supported by spices like star anise and green peppercorn. Warmer regions like the Colchagua Valley tend to producer fuller-bodied, richer styles, though there is still a restrained Chilean sensibility, through which spices and herbs tend to add complexity to delicately fruit-forward wines.
What to ask for: Ask by name
Alternative(s): Argentinian Syrah
Tasting tips
The eats
As mentioned in the Rhône Reds tasting, I’m a big fan of barbecue with Syrah. Real barbecue, mind, comprised of smoked meat. It can be beef, pork, sausage or turkey, and I will accept all kinds of regional variations. Barbecue and Syrah just work. That said, I have nothing against grilled meats per se, and if you’re in the holiday mood, like I am these days, a roasted duck or Christmas ham would be an extra-festive touch for this tasting. On the vegetarian side of things, I’d lean into smoky flavors through seasonings like smoked paprika, harissa or smoky curry-seasoned vegetables like roasted winter squash or eggplant.
As for charcuterie, Syrah wines can be medium- or full-bodied, and are friendly with a pretty wide variety of options. Smoked meats in particular work well, as well as firm cheeses like Pecorino or Manchego and soft cheeses like Humboldt Fog. Round it out with salted or herbed crackers, blanched almonds and some sweet and pickled accoutrements and you’re in for a real treat.
The prep
Some of these wines will be easy to find, others, not as much. I recommend giving your guests at least two weeks depending on where you live. For example, it can be difficult to locate South African Syrah in some parts of the US, and I’ve also found that it’s not the easiest to get certain American producers’ Syrahs here in Denmark.
There is a wide range of prices for all of these wines, so it’s up to you as the host to decide if you want to set a price range or let your guests determine what they’re each comfortable spending.
I know it seems unnecessary to chill most red wines, but these Syrahs are still best with just a little bit of coolness to them. Imagine that you are grabbing these bottles straight from a fancy cellar where the air feels brisk and damp. If you live somewhere where it’s cold already, the time in the trunk on the drive over might just be enough.
A note on the tasting order: The wines are listed in the order of which should be included first, so that even if there are just 4 wines in the tasting, you’ve got a well-rounded experience ahead. However, I’d suggest switching up the order in which you taste the wines, regardless of how many wines make it in the final cut, as follows:
Northern Rhône Syrah
New Zealand Syrah
Chilean Syrah
South African Syrah
American Syrah
Australian Shiraz
Sources
Syrah’s Genetic Parentage | Oxford Companion to Wine
Statistics of Wine Grapes in South Africa | SAWIS
