Full-Bodied Whites
Vintage image sourced on Pinterest
I will forever maintain that body is a weird word to apply to liquids, but since we don’t have words like skim and whole or categories like lager and stout in wine, I’ll leave it alone and accept that it is what it is. For this tasting, we get to focus on full-bodied whites: the white wines that feel as weighty on your palate as most reds, with richness that is sometimes buttery, sometimes oily, and always decadent.
If you’ve shied away from the very much untrendy full-bodied white wines, take this as your sign to give these wines a chance. What have been at times homogeneously overripe, buttery wines are now often richly nuanced, with clear varietal and terroir expression in addition to the luscious effects from winemaking choices. They’re the wine equivalent of a succulent, satisfying bowl of lobster bisque.
Stuff to know
There’s a common misperception that full-bodied white wines are always overripe, overly oaky butter bombs. Unfortunately, there is some basis to this assumption, since there was a trend toward homogeneously-styled, heavy-duty white wines in the 90s that continues to exist in some parts of the industry. That style never fully lost popularity with a certain subset of the population. Cue all the finger-pointing toward suburban moms and grandmas.
But if you’ve avoided full-bodied whites or have even been embarrassed to admit your secret liking for them (you know who you are), it’s high time to give these wines a chance…or at least start making your preferences known. You’re far less likely to find bland, heavy, overripe wines than you once were, since most winemakers today have refined their approaches and are creating nuanced, terroir-driven wines that still exude power and richness.
There are certain white grape varieties that consistently contribute body, weight and texture to a wine, like Viognier, Marsanne and Roussane. Chardonnay, on the other hand, which was most likely the first grape you thought of, isn’t necessarily full-bodied all by itself. It really depends on whether it was grown in a warmer climate (or vintage) and what the winemaker chose to do when making the wine.
It’s the winemaking choices that have the biggest impact on full-bodied whites, particularly malolactic fermentation, lees stirring and oak aging.
Malolactic fermentation (often called MLF or “malo”) is the process through which lactic acid bacteria convert malic acid to lactic acid (and CO2). This is a natural process that winemakers can intentionally block or encourage, and when a wine has gone through malolactic fermentation, it will taste creamier, with softer acidity, because malic acid, which is naturally occurring in grapes, is sharper, like a tart Granny Smith apple, while lactic acid tastes more like the acid found in butter and yogurt.
Lees stirring includes manually agitating the lees, which are dead yeast cells that naturally settle at the bottom of a tank or barrel after they’ve done the work of fermentation. Lees can be thick or fine, and to me, they look quite like a fuzzy blanket drifting underwater. Stirring the lees in a winemaking vessel will add flavor and texture to the wine, making it taste creamier, or even a bit like those crystals in a really good aged cheese.
Oak aging is what it sounds like, but there are many different choices a winemaker makes around “oaking” a wine that all impact the outcome. Some wines are fermented in oak barrels, which can add a rounder texture and a sense of more complete integration to the final wine. Some wines are fermented in stainless steel tanks or other vessels, then moved to oak barrels for aging. Some wines are made with American oak barrels, some with French, Hungarian or Slovenian oak, all of which add their own unique flavors. Some wines are made with oak chips or staves that are added to a wine much like a tea bag is added to hot water. Sometimes, lees stirring occurs while the wines are in oak barrels. Sometimes, the barrels are “neutral,” meaning that they’ve been used once or a few times before, so that their flavor impact on the wine is reduced. Sometimes, new oak barrels are just lightly toasted, so that the flavors they contribute are gentle, while other times, the new oak barrels get a medium toast, adding stronger flavors to the wine. I once visited a cooperage in Burgundy where we got to stick our noses inside freshly-made barrels with varying toast levels, smelling the lightest aromas of hazelnut and nutmeg, then medium toasts with richly fragrant cinnamon and vanilla, all the way through to smoky dark cocoa and coffee with the darkest toasts. The size of the barrels matters, too, since a smaller barrel allows more contact with the wine, impacting the wine more strongly than a large barrel would. And of course, how long the wine rests in the barrel matters, too.
After any or all of these winemaking choices, there is bottle aging. Some winemakers hold the bottles in their own cellars before releasing them to be sold, and others release them and let you decide when they’re ready to drink. These decisions are often personal, but sometimes, they’re dictated by local wine laws, like in Rioja, where Gran Reserva Rioja Blanco wines must age for at least 6 months in oak, then for much longer - a total of 48 months - before they can be sold.
As you’ve already guessed, making a full-bodied white wine typically isn’t cheap, so the production costs are typically reflected in the prices you’ll pay too. On the other hand, some of these styles are not very popular today, so they’re frankly underpriced compared to what they should cost. And, if you have the proper space and inclination, storing these wines for future enjoyment will often reward you well.
What to look for in this tasting
The most important thing to consider in this tasting is the way these wines feel on your palate. Take a moment to feel the weight of these wines, their texture and how they coat your palate. They might feel creamy, oily or silky, and there can be a pleasantly thick mouth-coating sensation that lingers long after the liquid itself has gone down the gullet. These are the elements that make these whites full-bodied.
Beyond texture and weight, there are many different aromas and flavors that can appear in these wines. The grape varieties themselves will contribute flavors like golden apple, lemon zest, peach, pineapple, mango, honeysuckle and orange blossom. Minerality might come through, with flavors and textures that taste and feel like chalk, flint or saline. Winemaking choices like lees stirring and oak aging will contribute flavors like yogurt, fresh cream, butter, nutmeg, toast, vanilla, caramel and hazelnut. Aging in the bottle will develop the flavors even further, and you might taste mushrooms, smoke, and almonds too. The best of these wines will give you a complex, concentrated ride with a finish that lingers well into your next bite.
The wines
#1: White Burgundy
White Burgundy, AKA Bourgogne Blanc. When the French say Bourgogne Blanc, they are always referring to white wines made with Chardonnay, which originated in Burgundy.
Unfortunately, Burgundy isn’t as simple as “Bourgogne Blanc.” Burgundy is the wine world’s most complex region. French wines are named by the place they’re from, and well, no place in France gets more specific in that naming than Burgundy.
There are 4 quality levels for all White Burgundy wines, starting with Bourgogne Blanc, which refers generally to all white Burgundy wines and is the name of the regional appellation, meaning that the grapes in a bottle of “Bourgogne Blanc” can be from anywhere in the Burgundy region. These are the least expensive White Burgundies. From there, quality levels go from Village, to Premier Cru, then Grand Cru, which are the most expensive.
It isn’t easy to remember which appellations are which and what the names mean. Even for those of us who study these things in depth, it’s tough. When you layer on vintage variation and all of the different producers in Burgundy…it can feel overwhelming.
All of this to say that you don’t need to get into that level of nerdiness if you don’t want to. Ask your local retailer to guide you to the right White Burgundy for your Wineluck Club tasting based on what you want to spend.
What to ask for: White Burgundy, preferably with clear oak influence, and then expect to share your target spend.
Alternatives: Stick with any White Burgundy from the Côte d’Or, Côte Chalonnaise or Mâconnais. On the label, this could include regional wines like “Bourgogne” or “Mâcon,” often with more words afterward, or Village wines, like these from the Côte d’Or: Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet, Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune, Saint Aubin, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Romain, Auxey-Duresses, Ladoix, Santenay, Pernand-Vergelesses, Maranges, Monthélie, Marsannay, Chorey-lès-Beaune, Côte de Nuits-Villages, Fixin, Vougeot, Morey-Saint-Denis, or Nuits-Saint-Georges,
…or these from the Chalonnaise: Mercurey, Montagny, Rully or Givry.
…or these from the Mâconnais: Pouilly-Fuissé, Saint-Véran, Pouilly-Loché, Puilly-Vinzelles, or Viré-Clessé.
If there are more words after a Village name, the wine could be a Premier Cru. Grand Cru wines skip the Village names entirely and only include the name of the Grand Cru on the bottle. If you can afford a Grand Cru wine for this tasting, I’m guessing that you might already know the names of the 9 Grands Crus blanc, but if you’d like me to add them here, comment below.
Note: If the label includes “Aligoté,” “Bouzeron” or Saint-Bris,” skip the wine for this tasting, since we are aiming to taste Chardonnay wines, rather than Burgundy’s other white grapes.
#2: Oaked American Chardonnay
American Chardonnay has a particular inflection point, the Judgement of Paris, the 1976 blind tasting judged by top French wine experts in which the then-new wines of California were pitted against the classic red and white wines of France. California won the top spots in both the white (Chardonnay) and red (Cabernet Sauvignon) categories, making headlines worldwide and transforming the wine industry on both sides of the ocean. At that time, California’s Chardonnays didn’t have any prestige, history or pedigree. The rules were nearly non-existent, and the entrepreneurial spirit was enormous. Winemakers were challenging whether it was possible to make some of the world’s greatest Chardonnays outside France. And they proved that it was. But, after the success of the Judgement of Paris, Chardonnay vines couldn’t be planted fast enough. And we all know what happens when there’s too much of a good thing. Some American winemakers began mass-producing overripe, over-oaked and often bland, flabby and sweet Chardonnay wines.
Luckily, the tide has turned again. California is still the best-known state for Chardonnay, but high quality Chardonnay wines are being made all over the United States, from cool-climate Oregon, where Burgundian varieties thrive, to Washington State, New York, Virginia and Texas. In general, Chardonnays from specific regions tend to be more expensive than wines labeled for their respective states, and the quality level generally follows suit.
What to ask for: Ask for an American Chardonnay with clear oak influence from any state, preferably from a region like Anderson Valley, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast, Santa Barbara County, Carneros-Napa Valley, Santa Cruz Mountains, Monterey County, Paso Robles, Willamette Valley, Columbia Valley, Yakima Valley, the Finger Lakes or any of their respective sub-regions.
Alternative(s): Oaked Australian Chardonnay
#3: Condrieu
If you’ve checked out the Rhône Reds or Syrah & Shiraz tastings, you might remember than in some appellations in the Northern Rhône and in the US and Australia, Syrah is co-fermented with a white grape called Viognier to add aromas, stabilize color and alter the texture and tannins of the wines. Condrieu, on the other hand, is a tiny little appellation in the Northern Rhône where Viognier gets to shine all by itself.
“Vee-own-yay” is one of those pain-in-the-butt grapes, like Pinot Noir, that are just difficult. It’s a grape variety that demands a lot of love and attention, in both the vineyards and **the winery. Viognier almost went extinct just before the 1980s, when only a few producers were choosing to bother with the labor-intensive and costly management of Viognier vines on the steep, terraced slopes in Condrieu. There still aren’t all that many producers today, but the fact that the appellation itself is only 540 acres (220 ha) has more to do with why these days.
The 100% Viognier wines from Condrieu are known for being incredibly aromatic, practically bursting forth from the glass. To me, they smell like fresh peaches, apricots, orange blossoms and honeysuckle. With that nose, the wine might surprise you on the palate, since it’s by no means a delicate flower. Condrieu wines are weighty, often with high alcohol levels, and tend to have a viscous, oily texture that is wholly unique. The wines usually have low levels of acidity, so the sense of freshness comes mostly from the aromas and sometimes from a bite of bitterness, like almond skin, on the finish. Condrieu wines are often polarizing, both in whether they are wholeheartedly loved or not, and whether they should be aged or not. You get to decide where you fall in both of these camps.
Château-Grillet is the only other appellation that’s completely dedicated to Viognier…but it’s even smaller than Condrieu. In fact, just one producer makes wine in Château-Grillet: the eponymously named Château-Grillet, which of course, means that that there are few wines produced, with the high prices to match.
What to ask for: Ask by name
Alternative(s): 100% Viognier from the Languedoc-Roussillon or from other Rhône regions, 100% Viognier wines from the US or Australia
#4: Northern Rhône Blanc
The Rhône may be best known for its reds, but there is a whole range of white varieties unique to the Rhône, too. Many of the white wines are blends, and for this tasting, we’re focusing on blends made primarily from Marsanne and Roussanne, which are typical in the Northern Rhône.
Marsanne in particular is known for its richness, making wines with serious heft. Marsanne’s peachy and floral aromas are on the subtle side and the acidity is quite low. Instead, the wines are best known for their weight and honeyed texture that you’ll feel on the palate.
Roussanne, on the other hand, is better known for its herbal tea-like aromas, firm, moderate acidity and russet-colored grape skins that can tinge white wines a golden-bronze. Roussanne and Marsanne are highly complementary blending partners, rounding out each others’ weak points like the best married couples. The combination often creates wines that are lusciously rich, ripe and viscous, delightfully memorable for the way they feel even more than the way they taste.
What to ask for: Ask for a Northern Rhône Blanc made with Marsanne and/or Roussanne, preferably from the Northern Rhône, from appellations like Hermitage Blanc, Crozes-Hermitage Blanc, St.-Joseph Blanc or still St. Péray
Alternative(s): Australian or American Marsanne
#5: Oaked Rioja Blanco
We served an oaked Rioja Blanco during Thanksgiving this year, much to the delight and surprise of our guests who were fans of Burgundian and American Chardonnays, but had never given Rioja Blancos a try.
Rioja Blanco wines are typically blends that primarily feature Viura, which also goes by the name Macabeo when grown further south and blended into Cava. Viura isn’t highly aromatic and usually has a moderate level of acidity, so the young wines, which fall into the Joven category, can be pretty simple, with citrusy and melon-y flavors that are refreshing, if not particularly memorable. However, when Rioja Blancos are aged in oak, they completely transform.
With oak aging, Rioja Blancos take on aromas of grilled pineapple, caramel and toasted almonds, sometimes with golden apple, lime peel and white tea, with a creamy texture that lingers in the best way.
There are different levels of aging in Rioja’s white wine classification system, all of which require a minimum of 6 months’ aging in oak barrels, with varying amounts of subsequent bottle aging before release. Crianza wines must age for a year in total, while Reservas age for two years and Gran Reservas age for at least four years. Even Gran Reserva Rioja Blancos are relatively affordable when you consider how long the producers have invested in the wines’ aging, especially compared to other aged white wines.
What to ask for: Ask for an oaked Rioja Blanco, preferably a Reserva or Gran Reserva
Alternative(s): Stick with an oaked Rioja Blanco
#6: Oaked South African Chenin Blanc
The first oaked South African Chenin Blanc I tasted was at June’s All Day in Austin, Texas, where once weekly, the bar poured wine blinds to test your skills. Unsurprisingly, I failed that particular test, since I just couldn’t place that oak-aged white with a character and acid structure completely distinct from any Chardonnay or White Bordeaux wine I’d ever tasted before. Since then, I’ve happily snagged oaked Chenins from producers like Adi Badenhorst whenever I’ve seen them on shelves.
While Chenin Blanc is best known in the Loire, the place where the most Chenin Blanc vines are grown is actually South Africa. Chenin, which sometimes goes by “Steen” in South Africa, is thought to be one of the varieties brought to South Africa in 1659, when Jan van Riebeeck, Governor-General of the Dutch East India Company, recorded the first wines made from Cape grapes.
For most of its history in South Africa, Chenin wasn’t used to create wines like the still, sparkling and sweet styles the Loire has made famous. It was considered a workhorse grape, easy to grow and tolerant of hot, dry weather, and was typically used to make brandy or blended into generic still wines made by large co-ops.
In the 1990s and early aughts, after South Africa’s first free democratic elections and once export markets were re-opened, winemakers had the opportunity to compete internationally again, and many began to get creative with the old, largely forgotten Chenin Blanc vines, especially in the Swartland. Many were helped by viticulturalist Rosa Kruger, who founded the Old Vine Project in South Africa to help winemakers find old vineyards from which to source fruit, since the vineyard owners had no real incentive at the time to maintain their old vines, which were labor-intensive and low-yielding bush vines. Dynamic winemakers formed movements like the Swartland Revolution, co-promoting terroir-focused, low-intervention, natural wines made from old vines.
These days, you can find incredibly complex, tropically ripe, textured Chenin Blancs with piercing acidity that show their oak aging subtly and elegantly, highlighting Chenin’s versatility and capability to express the character of the place where its grown.
What to ask for: Ask for an oaked Chenin Blanc from South Africa, from producers like A.A. Badenhorst, Mullineux and Raats
Alternative(s): Stick with an oaked Chenin Blanc from South Africa
Tasting tips
The eats
I like to think of these wines almost like cream sauces that have just enough lemon juice to make them addictive. I might think this way because I can’t actually eat real cream, since dairy doesn’t like me anymore, but I just love that I get the same luscious, indulgent feeling from one of these wines that I used to get from dishes with cheeses and cream sauces.
Classic pairings for these wines include butter-drenched roasted chickens, lobsters and crabs, and various fish in cream sauces, but if you aren’t feeling that level of cooking commitment for a casual tasting, a charcuterie board that includes soft, ripe cheeses with fresh herbs, olives, nuts or creamy dips like spinach artichoke or caramelized onion dip will totally do the trick. Personally, I’d be happy tasting these wines with just warm sourdough and salted butter. If you’re feeling the festive vibes, hors d’oeuvres like gougères, crostinis topped with cheese, mushroom toasts, stuffed mushrooms, and pretty much anything in a flaky pastry found in the Trader Joe’s freezer aisle will work well too.
The prep
While the grape varieties that comprise these wines contribute to their texture and weight, much of what makes these wines full-bodied comes from winemaking choices, several of which are costly. Purchasing high quality oak barrels with just the right amount of toast is expensive, as is the manual labor required to stir lees, which gives wines a textured, creamy mouthfeel. These and other winemaking choices add to the production cost of a wine, making this tasting is truly a decadent one, both in terms of cost and in terms of what you’ll taste. Keep this in mind as you decide when to plan this tasting and how to communicate spending expectations with your guests.
Some of these wines will be easy to find, others might take some time, depending on where you live. It’s worth giving your guests at least 2 weeks to find their wines for this tasting.
Encourage your guests to give their wines some pre-tasting fridge time, since this is a tasting where it’s best if the wines are chilled…but not too chilled. Lightly chilled is the goal here, so if the wines didn’t get their fridge time before arrival, just keep the ice bucket dunk time brief, since you’ll want to enjoy the fullest expressions of these wines and that’s just impossible to do when they’re ice cold.
A note on the tasting order: The wines are listed in the order of which should be included first, so that even if there are just 4 wines in the tasting, you’ve got a well-rounded experience ahead. However, I’d suggest switching up the order in which you taste the wines, regardless of how many wines make it in the final cut, as follows:
White Burgundy
Oaked South African Chenin Blanc
Oaked American Chardonnay
Condrieu
Rhone Blanc
Oaked Rioja Blanco
Sources
Viognier’s History | Oxford Companion to Wine
