Light-Bodied Reds
Vintage image sourced on Lipstick Alley
Body is such a weird word to describe liquids, isn’t it? I can’t help wishing there was a better word to describe the fullness, weight and texture of wine. Body, to me, just feels so fleshy. As in, in the flesh. Not at all how I think of wine.
But it’s the word that’s widely used, so I’ve accepted it too. This tasting groups styles of red wines together by a body-related characteristic. All of these red wines have light bodies, which in wine’s case, means that their weight is more akin skim than whole milk. Hopefully, I haven’t deterred you with mentions of flesh and milk, because these are some of my go-to styles of red wine.
Stuff to know
I might not like the word “body” for wine, but since it’s the word that’s most widely accepted, let’s talk about what it means, exactly, when a wine is light-bodied.
Body, in a wine context, refers to the weight of the wine on your palate. The easiest correlation here is skim versus whole milk (if you drink milk, that is). Beer is another one, in which case we’d be comparing a pale lager versus a stout. Wine works the same way, largely - but not entirely - thanks to the characteristics of individual grape varieties and the places where they’re grown.
Certain grapes have more flavor concentration, sugars and tannin levels in their pips, juice and skins than other grapes, resulting in fuller-bodied wines. Climate has a lot to do with this too, since like any produce, grapes will ripen faster and end up with more sugar at harvest time when grown in warmer climates. Yeasts convert sugar into alcohol and CO2 during fermentation, so high sugar at harvest time = high alcohol in the wine, which makes a wine feel heavier on the palate…making it a full-bodied wine. As you can guess, the reverse is true too. Less sugar at harvest time = less alcohol, which makes a wine feel lighter…AKA light-bodied.
The grapes and their climate aren’t the only factors though. Aging a wine in oak barrels adds weight, especially if the oak is heavily toasted. On the other hand, producing a wine using carbonic or semi-carbonic fermentation can lighten a wine’s body, since grapes that have undergone intracellular fermentation tend to have lower levels of tannins and even alcohol levels.
Speaking of tannins, they’re a factor in how big a wine’s body is too. Tannins tend to feel like a drying or bitter sensation on the palate. Almost like cotton balls have wiped out your mouth. Tea, coffee and chocolate have tannins too, so you may be familiar with how white tea feels softer and lighter than black tea, or how white chocolate doesn’t have any of extra dark chocolate’s mouth-drying capacity. When a wine has high tannins, it’s also usually described as having a full body, since tannins add a lot of texture to a wine.
To be clear, light-bodied red wines still have tannins, even if they’re less noticeable. Give these wines some attention as you’re tasting and you’ll feel low levels of tannins that are soft and velvety or grainy and grippy, since tannins’ texture can vary even more than the level of tannins in the wine.
What to look for in this tasting
I have a tendency to describe light-bodied red wines as “juicy.” I realize the word is not all that helpful, since these wines definitely do not taste like straight-up juice. I still like the word anyway, because to me, it connotes fresh, bright and light. And these wines tend to be all of those things.
Light-bodied red wines tend to have lower alcohol levels than full-bodied red wines, since alcohol adds weight. They will have lower levels of tannins too, but that doesn’t mean they’re not there. Keep an eye (a tongue?) out for subtler tannins whose textures will vary significantly between these wines.
The wines
#1: Pinot Noir
Pinot Noir’s home is in Burgundy, France. You won’t often hear its name in Burgundy though. Vignerons in Burgundy just use the word “rouge” (red) to refer to the variety, since all red wines in Burgundy are made from Pinot Noir.
In other parts of the wine world, the words “Pinot Noir” will be clearly featured on labels. But of course, there are more exceptions, since there are always exceptions in wine. Pinot Noir goes by “Pinot Nero” in parts of Italy, “Spätburgunder” in Germany, “Blauburgunder” in Austria and northern Italy and a few other names in Croatia, Slovenia and the Czech Republic. Some producers in these regions choose to use “Pinot Noir” to avoid confusion in export markets, so you can find wines labeled Spätburgunder being produced in the same region as others labeled Pinot Noir.
If there’s one thing that makes Pinot Noir wines less complicated, it’s that they’re usually made with 100% Pinot Noir grapes. This Goldilocks of a grape variety doesn’t play well with others. Pinot Noir wines tend to be on the subtle side, and they’re easily overwhelmed by other grape varieties when blended. And most winemakers who choose to take on the challenge of making great Pinot Noir want the distinctive characteristics of the place where the vines grew to shine through.
Pinot Noir wines aren’t known for having big structures, which means they’ll have much less tannin and body than Cabernet Sauvignons or Malbecs. These are wines whose tannins tend to feel soft, silky, velvety, even weightless. They’re quieter wines. Aromatic wines. And some of the most sought-after wines in the world.
What to ask for: Ask by name
Alternative(s): Stick with a Pinot Noir from anywhere in the world
#2: Beaujolais
Beaujolais (boh-zho-lay) wines are all made from Gamay (or Gamay Noir), a Burgundian grape variety related to Pinot Noir that doesn’t get anywhere near the same love and attention as its more famous relation. In fact, Gamay was so maligned that it was banned from its original homeland in 1395 by Philippe the Bold, who cast Gamay out from the Duchy of Bourgogne, relegating it to vineyards in the south, Beaujolais.
Luckily, Gamay did just fine in Beaujolais. Better than fine, if you ask me.
Beaujolais has had its ups and downs in terms of reputation over the years though. In the 1970s, Georges Duboeuf created a marketing campaign for Beaujolais Nouveau, a style of wine that’s just barely wine. It’s the harvest wine, an extremely young, juice-like wine that’s bottled 6-8 weeks after harvest, traditionally used as a celebratory drink for the workers who’ve made it through another vintage. Georges Duboeuf turned the local tradition into a global celebration, making the third Thursday in November Beaujolais Nouveau day, on which when you’ll hear “Le Beaujolais Nouveau est arrivé!” shouted from cafés and in the streets late into the night (that is, if you live in the center of Dijon, like I did in 2018). Outside of France, Beaujolais Nouveau bottles are raced off to other countries like the US, where the wine became a typical choice for our own Thursday in November celebration: Thanksgiving.
Unfortunately, Duboeuf’s campaign’s success backfired in that it overshadowed the quality wines in Beaujolais. Nouveau became inextricably tied with Beaujolais, and the Villages and Cru wines weren’t getting the attention they deserved. Fortunately, the “Gang of Four,” a group of producers focused on how their wines’ production impacted the environment began making natural Beaujolais wines that became sommelier darlings, rebuilding the region’s quality reputation. These days, I can’t imagine meeting a wine nerd who doesn’t love Beaujolais wines, particularly the Villages and Cru wines.
What to ask for: Ask by name
Alternatives: Gamay wines from other regions like the Mâconnais in Burgundy, the Loire Valley, Savoie, Switzerland, Oregon, California, Australia or New Zealand
#3: Valpolicella
If you’re familiar with Amarone della Valpolicella, you might be confused as to why Valpolicella shows up on a list of light-bodied wines. Amarones are known for being some of the wine world’s biggest, richest, full-bodied red wines. But Valpolicella wines, made from the same grapes in the same region, are light-bodied with fresh red fruit. Valpolicella wines are made without the grape-drying process that makes Amarone so distinctive. Instead, these wines are made with freshly harvested grapes, like most red wines worldwide.
Valpolicella and Valpolicella Classico wines are the least expensive of these styles. Valpolicella Classico Superiore is a step up, since the DOC rules for these wines require an extra percentage of alcohol, correlating to riper grapes at harvest, and require at least one year of aging, usually in oak. I recommend seeking a Classico Superiore if possible, though any Valpolicella from a reputable producer should be bursting with red fruit and herbal flavors, like an Italian garden.
What to ask for: Ask by name
Alternatives: Stick with a Valpolicella, preferably a Classico or Classico Superiore
#4: Schiava
Schiava (”skee-ah-vah”) also goes by Vernatsch and Trollinger, since this family of grape varieties is from Trentino-Alto Adige, AKA Südtirol, a part of Italy where it’s not always entirely clear whether you’ve crossed the border with Austria or not. Restaurant menus here are typically written in both German and Italian, with dishes like knödel with cheese and speck that sometimes go by their Italian name: canederli. Hotel staff will speak both languages too, but in my experience, English isn’t always guaranteed.
Way up north in the Dolomites, where high elevation vineyards are common, white grapes dominate. But the sunshine on south-facing Alpine slopes is abundant too, and there are a few red grape varieties that thrive, like Schiava.
Schiava wines are usually pale and delicate in both their structure and aromas. They can be so light that they could nearly pass as dark rosés. Flavors of strawberries, raspberries and roses are supported by subtle spices that temper their ethereal quality.
What to ask for: Ask by name
Alternatives: Santa Maddalena/St. Magdalener Classico, German or Austrian Trollinger
#5: Nerello Mascalese
Nerello Mascalese (”nehr-ello mas-cah-leh-zeh”) is a Sicilian grape variety known best for its prominence in Etna Rosso wines, whose grapes are grown on the sides of Europe’s largest active volcano: Mount Etna. If you’ve seen Season 2 of The White Lotus, you’ll recognize parts of Taormina, where my husband and I stayed during our honeymoon as we explored the city and drove to the vineyards of nearby Etna.
Anyone who has traveled for wine has a story in which the wines they tasted were the best ever while drinking them in situ, but then disappointed once brought home. I have those stories too, but none fo them are from our time in Sicily. The wines we brought home are just as delicious as the ones tasted while standing in vineyards on Etna surrounded by volcanic stone walls. I may be biased by my happy memories in Sicily, but I’m also trained to taste wine.
Nerello Mascalese is often blended with Nerello Cappuccio, especially in Etna Rosso wines. When blended, the wines can appear a bit darker in the glass, since wines made from 100% Nerello Mascalese are usually quite pale, often with a brick-red color.
Someone once told me that volcanic wines taste like the “dark side” of minerality, and that description stuck with me, since wines that are described as having minerality often make me think of oyster shells, petrichor or wet slate, while Nerello Mascalese wines have a salinity that makes me think of ocean breezes and a distinctly volcanic quality that smells like the black, porous stones littering Mount Etna. If I haven’t piqued your interest yet, imagine flavors of sour cherries, blood oranges, leather and fresh thyme lifted by bright acidity and Sicilian warmth.
What to ask for: Ask by name
Alternatives: Stick with a Nerello Mascalese or Etna Rosso
#6: Zweigelt
The first Zweigelt (”tsvy-gelt”) I tasted was from a liter-sized bottle with a horribly boring label sitting on the bottom of a grocery store shelf. Never a great sign. My expectations were low, but I was pleasantly surprised. The wine was fruity and spicy, and turned out to be perfect for being chilled and drunk with BBQ during the steamy summers in Austin, Texas.
I’ve since tasted many more Zweigelt wines and have traveled to wine regions in Austria to taste them at the source. As Austria’s most widespread red grape variety, it’s unsurprising that there’s a wide range of styles, from fresh & young to structured & aged in oak. There are plenty of natural wine producers making great Zweigelt wines too, usually with hip labels and a tingling vibrancy. Technically, Zweigelt wines can have medium body with strong tannins, but usually only when aged in oak. Most of the Zweigelt wines I’ve tasted have exhibited fresh red and black fruit flavors lifted by tart acidity and a subtle spiciness that keeps them interesting and refreshing.
What to ask for: Ask by name
Alternatives: Stick with an Austrian Zweigelt
Tasting tips
The eats
Light-bodied reds are far more flexible in terms of food pairing than red wines generally get credit for. These wines aren’t going to have big tannic structures or the deep concentration that necessitates richer food choices for balance. These wines can hang with fish like tuna, salmon and trout, or play well with tangy flavors like BBQ chicken, pork or tofu and sweet and sour dishes from Southeast Asia.
Since it’s getting cooler and darker every week here and hygge is slowly creeping to the top of my priority list, I’d make a chicken pot pie for this tasting. It doesn’t hurt that it’s easy to keep a pot pie warm in the oven so that it’s ready to go when guests arrive.
Charcuterie-wise, look to lighter cured meats like prosciutto and younger cheeses whose intensity will complement these wines’ juicier style.
The prep
Some of these wines may take time for your guests to find, depending on where you live. In Copenhagen, these wines should be readily available at most retailers. In the United States, availability really depends on the city and state, so I’d advise giving your guests at least 2 weeks to find their assigned wines.
There is a wide range of prices for all of these wines, so it’s up to you as the host to decide if you want to set a price range or let your guests determine what they’re each comfortable spending.
Light-bodied red wines are best with a bit of chill, so please encourage your guests to give their wines some pre-tasting fridge time, or have an ice bucket ready for a quick dunk to reach cellar temperature. If you’ve never walked down into a winemaker’s cellar and felt the chill and damp, just think about what it feels like on a brisk autumn day. A bottle that’s just cool to the touch, that’s the goal here.
A note on the tasting order: The wines are listed in the order of which should be included first, so that even if there are just 4 wines in the tasting, you’ve got a well-rounded experience ahead. However, I’d suggest switching up the order in which you taste the wines, regardless of how many wines make it in the final cut, as follows:
Schiava
Beaujolais
Pinot Noir
Zweigelt
Valpolicella
Nerello Mascalese
Sources
Gamay’s history | Vins de Bourgogne
Gamay Noir history | Oxford Companion to Wine
Valpolicella DOC Regulations | Italian Wine Central
Alto Adige / Südtirol DOC | Italian Wine Central
Zweigelt’s history | Austrian Wine
