Austrian Whites
Vintage image sourced on Vintage Everyday
Austria always makes me think of Alpine skiers and hearty dishes like Wiener Schnitzel, knödels, and apfelstrudel. And if you just thought, wait, aren’t those foods German? Think again. Austria and Germany share a language and many cultural traditions, but Austria has a history just as long, complex and fascinating as its northern neighbor. And it has a wine culture all its own.
Austria’s capital city, Vienna, consistently tops lists of “most liveable cities in the world,” and I like to think that might have at least a teensy bit to do with the fact that Vienna is also the world’s only metropolis still growing vines and making wine within the city limits. This is a country where wine has been made since the Bronze Age, and if the preservation of the vines within its capital is any indication, wine culture here is still going strong. This is your sign to get to know Austrian wines, starting with some of its best-known styles: the whites.
Stuff to know
In general, Austrian wines are high quality at all price points. They’ve needed to be.
After two world wars, Austria’s once-impressive empire and its well-crafted wines were no longer economically feasible for its citizens to continue to produce. Cheap bulk wines became the new norm, and the country’s wine reputation suffered. By 1985, the situation hadn’t changed, and a few desperate and corrupt individuals took things way too far. Anonymous reporters outed the culprits who had added diethylene glycol, a component of antifreeze, to their wines in an attempt to make them taste sweeter and fuller than they actually were. No one became sick or died, but the resulting recall of millions of bottles of wine, arrests and media frenzy was one of the worst wine scandals the industry had ever seen.
Austria’s government responded swiftly and dramatically, setting some of the strictest regulations in the world on their own industry. They didn’t just reposition themselves, they established tests at every step in the production process and rules ensuring that only quality wines would be allowed going forward. Austrian wine’s reputation didn’t turn overnight, but it became abundantly clear that it would. And it very much has. Today, Austria is known for quality-focused family-run estates instead of bulk wine manufacturers and offers some of the best values in the wine world, with wines that consistently punch above their price points.
One of the cues to look for that signals a quality Austrian wine is on the very top of the bottle. These Austrian wines bear a distinctive cap with a red-white-red striped color pattern based on the Austrian flag. I have to admit that these caps draw the eye, especially on my own wine racks, but they can be tricky when blind tasting, since even a bag over the bottle won’t hide the capsule at the top! A dead giveaway for sharp eyes.
Most Austrian wines sold in 750mL (standard) bottle sizes are dry. That said, there are still a few cues on labels that are relevant as you’re searching for the wines for this tasting:
Trocken on the bottle means that the wine is dry.
Kabinett on the bottle means that the wine is likely to be dry. I say likely because this category is based on the must weight, or amount of sugar in the grapes before fermentation, so there can be some variation in the final wines based on how winemakers chose to allow their wines to ferment.
Klassik on the bottle means that the wine will be light, without significant complexity or concentration.
Reserve on the bottle means that the wine’s grapes were hand-harvested, and typically indicates a higher level of complexity and concentration than Klassik.
DAC on the bottle refers to the region the wine is from, since this is the acronym for the system Austria uses for officially designated wine regions, much like AOC in France or DOC in Italy.
Ried on the bottle is referring to a single vineyard, so “Ried” appears before the name of the vineyard.
Erste Lage (or 1 ÖTW) on the bottle means that the wine comes from a vineyard that has been designated “premier cru,” in a system similar to the one used in Burgundy, France. This system is created by a winegrower’s association with the regions and member estates listed here.
Große Lage (or G ÖTW) on the bottle means that the wine comes from a vineyard that has been designed “grand cru,” in a system similar to the one used in Burgundy, France. This system is created by a winegrower’s association with the regions and member estates listed here.
Steinfeder on the bottle means that the wine is from the Wachau region, and is a lighter style with an alcohol level at or below 11.5% abv.
Federspiel on the bottle means that the wine is from the Wachau region, and has more complexity and concentration than Steinfeder wines, as well as an abv between 11.5-12.5%.
Smaragd on the bottle means that the wine is from the Wachau region, and that it’s a rich, concentrated wine with more than 12.5% abv.
There are other words that may appear on labels as you’re searching for your wines, like Spätlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, Eiswein, Strohwein and Trockenbeerenauslese, but these all refer to categories of sweet wines that are not part of this particular tasting. If you’re interested in tasting sweet wines, check out Wine for Dessert.
If you or one of your guests purchases a single vineyard wine, I recommend visiting Austria’s incredible online map on which every single vineyard in Austria is mapped, with details about the history, grapes grown there, climate, soil types, elevation, aspect and more. It’s one of the most transparent and in-depth digital resources in the wine world and is just a really cool way to visualize the place your wine is from.
What to look for in this tasting
I was lucky enough to go on a wine tasting trip to Austria with one of my good friends who is studying to become a Master of Wine. It was such a treat to geek out with her on Austrian wine facts, history and most importantly, winery visits and tasting experiences. I had tasted plenty of Austrian wine before, but not with the same intensity of focus, tasting parcels of vineyards side-by-side, progressing from a producer’s entry wines to their most prized and getting to know their terroir by climbing up hillsides and hustling to keep up while taking notes through undulating rows of vines.
I wish I could say that this delightful experience taught me how best to describe Austria’s wines. But if it taught me anything, it was that Austria has a huge range of wine styles that just aren’t that easy to categorize.
Austrian Wine groups the country’s whites into 2 categories: classic & refreshing or powerful & opulent. This works, but I’d personally switch it up a bit, with 3 categories:
Green and vibrant. Almost buzzing with acidity on the palate. Most of the less-expensive wines will fit into this category, with light, bright, citrus-y flavors and racy acidity that makes them fantastic partners for those salads and bowls with lots of greens and zesty dressings.
Pure and austere. I like to think of these wines in the same way I’ve heard iced tea described as being wetter than water. Describing wines like these isn’t easy. The word I reach for most is petrichor, that smell that appears just after it rains. I used to live in a neighborhood where all of the houses’ roofs were made of slate, and whenever it rained, there was a particularly strong scent that will always be the first thing I think of when someone says a wine has “minerality.” Some of you will find this entire category confusing, but please taste some of Rudi Pichler’s wines for yourself before writing it off.
Powerful & rich. Or ok, fine, opulent. Rich just sounds more aspirational to me. Even if you don’t aspire to power and riches, please taste some of these wines to understand for yourself what this category tastes like. Think high alcohol wines with concentrated flavors, spices and luscious textures.
I’d love to hear how you’d categorize Austrian whites after your Wineluck Club tastings.
The wines
#1: Austrian Grüner Veltliner
Grüner Veltliner (”groo-ner velt-leener”), which is the shorthand for this grape, is Austria’s claim to wine fame. There are several grape varieties that are unique to Austria, but Grüner has become the country’s flag-bearer in the wine world. And for good reason, since the grape is only rarely grown in other countries, while it comprises 32% of Austrian wine grape production.
My impression of Grüner Veltliner for quite awhile was that the wines were light and green with zippy acidity and a sharpness like freshly ground white pepper, perfect with greens or sushi. And then I visited Austria and tasted more of the complex Grüner Veltliners from the Wachau, Kamptal and Kremstal regions in Niederösterreich and my idea of what Grüner was completely changed. These wines were bursting with white peaches and apricots, sometimes with a rich honeyed texture and sometimes with a purity and precision that’s admittedly difficult to describe. If you’ve only had one style of Grüner and you’re not a fan, please try others before ruling out the grape.
Klassik and Steinfeder wines tend to be light and green, while wines that have Reserve, Federspiel and especially Smaragd on the label tend to be riper styles. Single vineyard wines are selected for the character of a particular vineyard, and will usually have more ripeness and complexity as well.
What to ask for: Ask by name
Alternative(s): Stick with a Grüner Veltliner from any Austrian wine region
#2: Austrian Riesling
Riesling is one of the “noble” grape varieties, which can mean a lot of things, but to me, it means that the grape often stands alone in wines and expresses the specific character of the place where it’s grown. This capability is well served in Austria, whose Rieslings have a character all their own.
Riesling represents less than 5% of the total vineyard area in Austria, but the wines are some of the most acclaimed, especially in parts of Niederösterreich like the Wachau, Kamptal and Kremstal. Austrian Rieslings aren’t the easiest to stereotype, but many will be riper, with higher alcohol levels and more richness than German Rieslings, since Austria’s more southerly vineyards soak in sunshine, especially on the southern-facing slopes along the Danube river.
Much like with the Grüner Veltliners, the wines’ ripeness and resulting styles can vary significantly, and the words on the bottle can give you some indication of what you’re buying. Klassik and Steinfeder wines tend to be light and green, while wines that have Reserve, Federspiel and especially Smaragd on the label tend to be riper styles. Single vineyard wines are selected for the character of a particular vineyard, and will usually have more ripeness and complexity as well.
What to ask for: Ask by name
Alternatives: Stick with an Austrian Riesling from any wine region
#3: Austrian Chardonnay
Chardonnay is grown all over the world and is the most-planted white wine grape worldwide. Its styles can vary dramatically everywhere it’s planted though, and Austria is no exception.
In Austria, Chardonnay also goes by the name Morillon, though most producers these days use “Chardonnay” on labels, since it’s far more widely recognized. Like in most countries today, Austrian producers make both unoaked styles of Chardonnay that tend to be more fruit-focused and oaked styles of Chardonnay that often undergo malolactic fermentation and tend to be rich and creamy. And there’s a whole spectrum in between. Chardonnay wines are made all over Austria, from Steiermark in the south to northern Burgundland and in parts of Neiderösterreich and Wien (around Vienna).
When I visited Austria, I expected to come home with an array of Grüner Veltliner, Riesling, Zweigelt and Blaufränkisch wines, and yet I managed to add several Chardonnay wines to my purchases, simply because they were just that good.
What to ask for: Ask by name
Alternatives: Stick with an Austrian Chardonnay from any wine region
#4: Austrian Sauvignon Blanc
I can still remember my first Austrian Sauvignon Blanc. It was a Kalk & Kreide from Weingut Tement in Steiermark (AKA Styria), a wine that a friend brought over to share. It wasn’t a particularly expensive or exclusive bottle, it was just meant for a chill weekend lunch with friends. But it was the kind of wine that couldn’t just act as background noise to the meal. It was too delicious. My interest was piqued, and these days, I will to happily recommend Austrian Sauvignon Blanc to anyone who’s interested.
Sauvignon Blanc comprises less than 4% of Austria’s vineyard area, but more than half of those plantings are in hilly Steiermark in southern Austria, which has made a name for itself internationally for its top-notch Sauvignon Blancs. All grapes are required to be hand-harvested in this part of Austria, so producers inevitably invest in making high quality wines, since they’d be too expensive to produce if they weren’t.
What to ask for: Ask by name
Alternatives: Stick with an Austrian Sauvignon Blanc from any wine region
#5: Wiener Gemischter Satz
Yes, this wine’s name starts with Wiener. In this case, it refers to the city we know as Vienna, and specifically to the wine region, Wien, that surrounds the city. Wiener Gemischter Satz (”vee-ner gehm-ish-ter zahtz”) translates to “field blend from Vienna,” since that’s exactly what it is: a blend of at least 3 of the approved white grapes that have been grown together in the same vineyard, harvested together and then vinified together. It’s one of Austria’s most traditional wines, and was Austria’s first “style” approved for DAC status, in contrast to its other DAC wines that were approved by grape variety.
Vienna is the only major world capital city with significant wine production inside city limits, with almost 1,500 acres (600 ha) of vines. Wine is so ingrained in the culture here that Vienna also has its own style of wine tavern: the Heurige (”hoy-ree-guh”). Heurige are sometimes larger taverns with hot food, and are sometimes Buschenschank, small seasonal pop-up taverns that serve cold foods, often within the vineyards themselves.
I was lucky enough to visit Weingut Wieninger in Vienna, a biodynamic producer who was a big part of Gemischter Satz’s recent acknowledgement as a quality style all its own, worthy of classification. Unfortunately, we weren’t there during prime Heurige season, so I haven’t had that experience just yet, but I can still highly recommend these wines and the opportunity to visit a world-class winery inside the capital city.
What to ask for: Ask by style name
Alternatives: Stick with Wiener Gemischter Satz, ideally village-level (Ortswein) or single vineyard (Gebietswein)
#6: Austrian Weissburgunder
Weissburgunder (”vice-burgunder”), AKA Pinot Blanc, is often relegated to being blended into still or sparkling wines, or treated simply to create rather boring “house” wines. But there are certain places where Pinot Blanc is treated with more care, as it often is in Austria, where I’ve tasted Pinot Blancs that are surprisingly spicy, waxy and intriguing, with oak aging and the capacity to develop further with time in the bottle. Winemakers here are coaxing the character out of this subtle grape.
Winemakers usually use “Weissburgunder” or “Pinot Blanc” on the labels of these wines, but “Klevner” can also make an appearance on occasion, so keep an eye out for all 3 possible names when searching for these wines.
What to ask for: Ask by name
Alternatives: Stick with a Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc) from any wine region in Austria
Tasting tips
The eats
I love a good Wiener schnitzel, but I’m just not ambitious enough to tackle making them for a Wineluck Club tasting, since I prefer making foods that allow me to be fully present as a host once guests arrive. Luckily, Austria’s whites are some of the most versatile wines on the market, even able to withstand notoriously challenging pairing partners like complex Asian flavors and bitter herbs and vegetables.
Since it’s Fall in Denmark, it’s the season where cabbage and its relatives begin to really shine. For this tasting, I’d celebrate the vegetables of this transitional season with dishes like a Brussel sprout tart and a vinaigrette-based shredded broccoli & cabbage salad. I’d throw in a veggie-focused charcuterie board and accompany it with ample sourdough and the good olive oil - the kind you save for just this kind of occasion. If you’re feeling like I’ve let you down on the Austrian food front, consider swapping the sourdough for a traditional Austrian potato salad.
The prep
These wines may take time for your guests to find, depending on where you live. In Copenhagen, these wines should be readily available at most retailers. In the United States, where I’m from, availability really depends on the city and state, so I’d advise giving your guests at least 2 weeks to find their assigned wines.
There is a wide range of prices for all of these wines, so it’s up to you as the host to decide if you want to set a price range or let your guests determine what they’re each comfortable spending.
Please encourage your guests to give their wines some pre-tasting fridge time, or have an ice bucket ready for a quick dunk to sufficiently chill the wines before tasting.
A note on the tasting order: The wines are listed in the order of which should be included first, so that even if there are just 4 wines in the tasting, you’ve got a well-rounded experience ahead. However, I’d suggest switching up the order in which you taste the wines, regardless of how many wines make it in the final cut, as follows:
Sauvignon Blanc
Weissburgunder
Grüner Veltliner
Riesling
Wiener Gemischter Satz
Chardonnay
Sources
History, Regulations, Styles & Grape Production Statistics | Austrian Wine
Wachau Styles | Vinea Wachau
Vienna’s vineyards & wineries | Wien
Most liveable cities 2024 | EIU Global Liveability Index
