Sweet Riesling
Vintage image sourced on Flickr
If you’ve made it this far without running away from the word “sweet,” congratulations! You’re in for a real treat. Sweet Rieslings, like most sweet wines these days, are just not all that popular, despite the unassailable fact that humans both love and crave sweets.
Even in Denmark, right next door to Germany, where the crème de la crème of sweet Rieslings are made, these wines aren’t exactly flying off the shelves. Wines that were once among the most premium wines in the world are simply not commanding the market interest or prices commensurate with the high level of effort and risk required to produce them.
Selfishly, part of me wants to gatekeep these wines from the massive American market, since increased interest will drive prices back up. But the dedicated producers of these wines deserve the sales, and let’s be real, I couldn’t gatekeep if I tried. I guess that’s the American in me, always ready to share a good find.
If you enjoy this tasting and want to try other sweet wines, check out Wine for Dessert.
Stuff to know
My first-ever European wine trip was to the Rheingau in Germany. My sister plays professional volleyball, and she was living in Wiesbaden at the time, playing for a German league. In between her practices and games, we took a day to drive out to Schloss Vollrads and Schloss Johannisberg, which I had learned from SommTV were some of the oldest continually-operating wineries in the world. It was a grey and almost desolate February day, months away from tourist season, and we got to taste through their full range of wines at our leisure. Before that tasting, I hadn’t really understood what people meant when they said that Riesling is an incredibly versatile grape.
We tasted the full ranges of their Prädikatswein (a German quality classification for wines with “distinction”), from the Kabinett wines to the Spätlese and Auslese, and all the way through to the syrup-y sweet Trockenbeerenauslese, which tasted to me like brûléed pineapple, honey and sunshine. I was hooked.
Over centuries of winemaking, orderly Germans created a system to classify grapes by ripeness, calculated by must weight, or the weight of the sugar in the grapes’ juice. This Prädikatswein system was enshrined in law in 1971, but the idea goes way further back than that.
Essentially, the system indicates when the grapes for each style of wine should be harvested. I like to imagine German monks carefully picking their way through steep hillside vineyards as the weather got colder and the days became shorter, precisely selecting grapes at just the right level of ripeness for one style, then the next style, then the next, and so on for all of the Prädikatswein, which are the 6 wines in this tasting. My imaginings aren’t all that far from reality here.
Harvests go later and later for each of these wines, from Kabinett and Spätlese at the first level of “late harvest” all the way to Eiswein, whose grapes are harvested in the dark and freezing winter to be pressed while still frozen.
It’s helpful to remember that extra sugar in grapes used to be a really big deal back when when it was the rare year that had just the right warmth and weather conditions enabling a crazy-late harvest that would allow winemakers to make these sweet wines. These days, climate change both helps and hurts the producers’ chances to create complex Rieslings across the sweetness spectrum. Either way, making these wines is a labor of love.
What to look for in this tasting
As the name of the tasting suggests, there will be sweetness in these wines! The wines will progress from lightly sweet to syrup-y, but pay attention to whether the sweetness ever feels cloying. Rieslings - especially sweet Rieslings - have high acidity levels that balance the sweetness, just like sugar does in lemonade. The intent here is for the wines to taste sweet, but lively with an energetic, almost electric acidity that keeps the wines from ever feeling heavy.
Beyond the acid, these wines should have flavors that match the intensity and concentration of the sweetness. Kabinett Rieslings will taste lighter, more ethereal, and may have flavors like lime zest, honeysuckle, white peach and wet slate. Trockenbeerenauslese Rieslings, on the other end of the spectrum, will have intense flavors from botrytized grapes, like dried apricots, saffron, ginger and honeycomb. There will be a range of flavors in between, and their concentration and body should increase right alongside the sweetness.
We can’t talk about Rieslings without talking about TDN, this complex flavor compound with a really long scientific name that tends to form in Riesling wines with certain climatic influences or with time in the bottle. If there’s a familiar smell that you just can’t place that reminds you of things that feel awkward to mention in wine tastings like kerosene, gasoline, car tires or fresh tennis ball cans, it might be TDN. Know that it’s intentional and considered desirable in small quantities, since it adds complexity and interest to the wines. I have to admit that I love this smell and find it to be captivating when well-integrated with the wine’s other flavors. If you find it overpowering, that’s ok too. Only you can decide what you like.
Keep an eye on the alcohol levels in this tasting too. As the sweetness increases, the alcohol levels decrease, so that some of the wines may have abv’s as low as 7-9%.
The wines
#1: Kabinett Riesling
The first ripeness level is Kabinett, so these grapes are picked first. Kabinett is basically what it sounds like: the name colloquially refers to a winemaker’s “cabinet,” or their secret stash where their private wine reserve is stored. These wines will be the lightest in this tasting, and are sometimes dry, but usually lightly sweet. When people say that Rieslings are light-bodied with low-alcohol, they’re usually referring to Kabinett wines, which can have abv levels as low as 7% (though dry examples can go as high as 12%).
These wines’ delicate structure is typically matched by flavors that just kiss the palate, like lime zest, white peach, honeysuckle and green apple. Kabinett wines have been picking up steam popularity-wise lately, especially during warm German summers, where “Kabi” parties have become a trend that I could totally see hopping over the pond.
What to ask for: Ask by name
Alternative(s): Stick with a Kabinett Riesling, preferably from Germany. Austrian Kabinett Rieslings are more likely to be dry, but can also work here.
#2: Spätlese Riesling
Spätlese (”schpate-layzeh”), which means “late picked” is the next level up ripeness-wise. These Riesling grapes are picked roughly two weeks later than Kabinett grapes, and are fully ripe. They’re technically late harvest, but that’s a relative term, considering that there are 4 more styles of wine with even later harvests to go in the Prädikatswein system.
Spätlese wines, like Kabinett wines, can be dry or sweet. The difference here is a higher level of sugar in the grapes, which means that the wines will be fuller, more concentrated wines with riper fruit flavors, and the sweet versions aren’t just lightly sweet. Spätlese can go all the way to medium-sweet. The “tell” is the alcohol level. If the wine you’ve picked up has an alcohol level closer to 7%, it will be sweet. If the alcohol level is closer to 12%, the wine is likely to be dry or off-dry.
What to ask for: Ask by name
Alternative(s): Stick with a Spätlese Riesling from Germany or Austria
#3: Auslese Riesling
Auslese (”awws-layzeh”) means “selected harvest,” and is a level of ripeness up from Spätlese. The “selected” in this case is quite literal, since Auslese wines are made from hand-selected extra-ripe grapes. Producers have to go through the grapes bunch by bunch, either in the vineyard or the winery, to determine which grapes will make the cut to become Auslese wines.
As you’ve guessed, since we’ve progressed ripeness-wise here, Auslese wines will have flavors that are even more ripe and concentrated that Spätlese wines. Think ripe peaches, honey and apricots. I’ve basically just set the scene for an Old Masters-style still life painting.
Auslese wines are the last Prädikatswein style that can be dry or sweet. The “tell” is the same here as it is for the Spätlese and Kabinett wines. The lower the alcohol, the sweeter the wine. The higher the alcohol, the more likely the wine is to be dry or off-dry.
What to ask for: Ask by name
Alternative(s): Stick with a German or Austrian Auslese Riesling if possible, or consider a Riesling Vendanges Tardives from Alsace
#4: Beerenauslese Riesling
Beerenauslese (”beer-en-awws-layzeh”), thankfully often abbreviated to just BA, moves up from selected harvest to selected berries. Producers of these wines have to pick out individual berries (or grapes) that are extra-extra-ripe, usually dried, and sometimes botrytized. Botrytis is a mold, which sounds disgusting, but it does magical things to the flavors of the grapes that get just the right level of mold at just the right time. For context, Sauternes is probably the world’s best-known botyrized wine today.
These wines are always sweet, and usually sold in 375mL, or half-size bottles. The alcohol levels will low, sometimes as low as 5.5% abv, since the yeasts fermenting these wines struggle to get their job done in such a sugar-rich environment. Between the Goldilocks conditions needed for the individual grapes to reach BA-status, the experienced hand labor and the long, slow fermentations, these are rare wines. They just can’t be produced every year. Look out for ripe, but also dried fruit flavors like dried apricots with honeycomb, ginger and baked peaches in the wines.
What to ask for: Ask by name
Alternative(s): Stick with a German or Austrian Beerenauslese Riesling if possible, or consider a Riesling Sélection de Grains Nobles from Alsace
#5: Riesling Eiswein
Technically, Eiswein (”ice-vine”) is harvested later than Trockenbeerenauslese, since the grapes used to produce Eisweins are literally harvested while frozen in the dead of winter, but these wines tend to have less sweetness than Trockenbeerenauslese wines, so this is the order we’re going with. Eiswein requires just-right conditions to be produced, since healthy, ripe grapes have to avoid mold, animals or other difficult weather conditions to stay on the vine until temperatures reach 19°F (-7°C), when they can be harvested and pressed while frozen.
Pressing frozen grapes is, as you’d imagine, not easy work. Teensy little amounts of crazy concentrated juice make it through to become wine, and the wines are typically sold in 375mL, or half-size bottles. Since these are labor-intensive wines that can only be produced when all things line up just so, they can be expensive and hard to find. The flavors in these wines are often intense and crystalline in their purity.
What to ask for: Ask by name
Alternative(s): Stick with a German or Austrian Riesling Eiswein if possible, or consider a Canadian Riesling Icewine
#6: Trockenbeerenauslese Riesling
Trockenbeerenauslese (”trocken-beer-en-awws-layzeh”), which you can just call TBA, moves up from selected berries to selected dried berries. More specifically, we’re looking at botryrized grapes here. Botrytis is a mold, and you’ve probably seen it before on fuzzy strawberries. While it’s not great for strawberries, it works extremely well on grapes destined to become wine - but only if the conditions are just right. The grapes have to be healthy and fully ripe before being affected by Botrytis, and then they’re carefully hand-picked, grape by grape, to ensure just the right amount of botrytization.
These wines are always sweet and usually sold in 375mL, or half-size bottles. The alcohol levels are low and the sugar levels are high. These are the sweetest of the Prädikatswein, but they tend to have very high acidity levels that balance the sweetness and make the wines interesting and age-worthy. These are rare wines, since conditions need to be just right to make them and they’re expensive to produce. Flavors in these wines will be concentrated, often with dried fruit flavors like apricots and sultanas, along with honey, saffron and ginger.
What to ask for: Ask by name
Alternative(s): Stick with a German or Austrian Trockenbeerenauslese Riesling
Tasting tips
The eats
Usually, I recommend keeping the eats simple so that you can focus on being present as a host and tasting all the wines. However, this is one tasting where it’s worthwhile to serve something specific with the first 3 wines and something else with the last 3 wines, because the sugar levels creep up significantly as we progress through all 6.
For the first 3 wines, Kabinett, Spätlese and Auslese:
Instead of a charcuterie board, consider serving snacks with this one. Especially snacks with some acidity, spice and fat, which will sing with these high-acid, lightly sweet wines. Think Buffalo wings or Buffalo cauliflower, jalepeño poppers, soft pretzels with spicy melted cheese, spicy party mixes. If your family is from Texas like mine, bust out that old 70s-style crockpot and make Velveeta and Rotel dip, sausage optional. Make the sausage cheddar biscuit balls that my brothers obsess over at the holidays. Stuff those pigs in a blanket with spicy smoked sausages instead of the usual bland suspects. You get the gist.
If you prefer to serve a meal instead of snacks, look to Thai, Vietnamese and BBQ recipes to get those contrasts of spice, sweetness and fat. Sweet and sour anything will work here too. Less-spicy foods are also an option for the spice-averse amongst you. Just think about these wines like you would sweet jams or roasted fruits. If a dish could be served something like a sweet chutney, lingonberry jam, cranberry sauce or roasted apples, it will probably work well with off-dry Rieslings. Contrast can be exciting, invigorating, even. It’s fun to play these just-sweet wines against savory flavors.
For the last 3 wines, Beerenauslese, Eiswein and Trockenbeerenauslese:
These wines are all fully sweet, with varying levels of intensity and concentration. This is where you can either take the French-style cheese course route or go all-in on sweetness and serve dessert. If you or any of your guests have a dairy intolerance like I do, you know which route to take. If not, consider salty, pungent cheeses like Roquefort, Gorgonzola, Feta or Parmesan.
For the dessert route, classic flavors like those found in crème brûlée, apple pie or its French cousin, tarte tatin would be delicious here, in whichever dessert-y form you choose to pursue, from ice creams to baked goods.
The prep
Some of these wines may take time for your guests to find, depending on where you live, especially since some of these wines are produced in very small amounts and aren’t the trendiest of wines at the moment. In the United States, availability really depends on the city and state, so I’d advise giving your guests at least 2 weeks to find their assigned wines. It’s also worth paying attention to the alternatives listed within each wine if any are difficult to source where you live. Germany produces the majority of sweet Rieslings, but there are styles from Austria and Alsace that can be substituted.
There is a wide range of prices for all of these wines, so it’s up to you as the host to decide if you want to set a price range or let your guests determine what they’re each comfortable spending. Hosts should be aware that Beerenauslese, Eiswein and Trockenbeerenauslese wines will typically be sold in half-sized bottles and will often be more expensive than the average Kabinett, Spätlese or Auslese wines. To compensate for this, hosts could choose to direct guests bringing the Kabinett, Spätlese and Auslese wines to splash out a bit on pricier producers’ wines, or to help by bringing some of the dishes complementing this tasting. You know your budget and guests’ lifestyles best.
Please encourage your guests to give their wines some pre-tasting fridge time, or have an ice bucket ready for a quick dunk to sufficiently chill the wines before tasting.
Pay attention to the size of the bottles during the tasting too. Basically, if it comes in a smaller bottle, a smaller pour is advisable too. I promise, every drop in those bottles is liquid gold.
A note on the tasting order: The wines in this tasting are listed in the order in which they should be tasted, so if you have fewer than 6 guests, remove wines from either end of the list so that you still have a natural progression.
Sources
Eiswein’s History | Wines of Germany
