Piedmont
Vintage image sourced on Pinterest
Whenever I picture Piedmont, it’s autumn. Even though I’ve been on calls with producers, watched videos and seen plenty of photos from other seasons, it’s somehow always autumn in Piedmont in my mind. Clearly, I need to plan a visit to Piedmont in the autumn and make this picture a reality. Until then though, let’s talk about tasting the wines from this beautiful Italian region.
All the way up in northern Italy, amongst the foothills of the Alps, Piemonte, which roughly translates to “at the foot of the mountains” is a continental region where long, slow growing seasons and late autumn harvests result in ethereal wines with haunting, kaleidoscopic aromas and flavors. Oh, and this is also the region of egg-based pastas with butter and white truffles galore. Autumn or no, tasting the best of Piedmont is always a good idea.
Stuff to know
The best boss I’ve ever had interviewed me with a map of Barolo’s communes framed on the wall behind him. If there ever was a good sign quite literally plastered on the wall in front of me, I’d say that was it. I didn’t get to work with him for long, since my husband’s job brought us overseas to Denmark shortly after I was hired, but I will always be grateful for the experience. That boss’s sheer enthusiasm for Piedmont and its Barolos, a wine region at the opposite end of the country from where he was born, was virulently infectious. If you didn’t already love Barolos before working with him, you sure would before you left.
Piedmont is a rather prolific wine region, with a wide variety of indigenous grapes and traditional styles of wine. There are more DOCGs (denominazione di origine controllata e garantita), Italy’s highest classification for a historic area and wine style, in Piedmont than any other wine region in Italy. And Italy is pretty much entirely wine regions.
If you started your wine journey with the sweet, low-ish alcohol stuff, you might be familiar with the subtly fizzy Moscato d’Asti or fully sparkling Asti Spumante, either of which would work well as an aperitif for this tasting. If you’re a more adventurous sort, you might have tried Brachetto d’Acqui, a sparkling red wine, or even a Barbera Frizzante. There are also sweet red wines made from Malvasia and fortified wines produced in Piedmont, like Barolo Chinatos, included in the Fortified Reds tasting. And there are wines produced from other grapes like Freisa, Grignolino and Ruché that all deserve your attention, too. In this tasting, we’re covering the classics, the best-known and most widely distributed styles of wine from Piedmont, so that you can get a sense of the region’s range from wherever you live.
Piedmont, or Piemonte, if we’re using the Italian spelling, is wedged between France and Switzerland, framed by the Alps. It’s a massive region, the second-largest in Italy, though in terms of wine region sizing, it ranks seventh. As you might guess, the terrain at the foot of the Alps is far from flat. This mostly hilly region is crisscrossed by rivers like the Tanato and Po, which create even more topographical and geological diversity as they wind their way through.
Piedmont, like many Italian regions, has been governed by a wide range of domestic and foreign rulers, from the Romans to the Burgundians, Ostogoths, Lombards, Franks and Moors, before the House of Savoy, then Kingdom of Italy. There was a brief period of time when Piedmont became part of France during the Napoleonic era, and there are even wines by Renato Ratti whose labels depict the Piedmontese soldiers who defended their territory during that time. France’s influence can still be seen today in the region’s foods and winemaking practices. Piedmont’s capital, Turin, was even briefly home to kings and the capital of Italy, when the House of Savoy became Kings of Italy.
While Piedmont is well known worldwide for its wines, there are other foodie treasures from this region, too. The white truffles from Alba are some of the most prized delicacies in the world, and there are other beloved products like Bresaola, Nutella, Gianduiotto chocolate and Lavazza coffee. And that’s all before we start talking about the various pastas. Suffice it to say that I can’t wait to finally visit.
What to look for in this tasting
Italian white wines are best known for their textures, even more than their flavors. As you’re tasting the Cortese di Gavi and Arneis, take a moment to consider how they feel, often their most important attribute.
Barbera and Dolcetto are like yin and yang, the former with plenty of acidity, but not a whole lot of tannic structure, and the latter with plenty of tannic structure but rather low in the acidity department. If you’re not so confident identifying acidity and tannin levels in wines, these two will be a great side-by-side to highlight wines that strongly feature one or the other attribute. These two are beloved meal-pairing wines for good reason. They’re the kind of everyday heroes that are affordably delicious, finding their balance when enjoyed with food.
Barbaresco and Barolo are the ultimate tricksters. They’re the optical illusions of red wines, with pale, orange-tinted hues in the glass, even when young. And then bam! Out come the haunting, powerful, complex and memorable aromas and flavors. Oh, and by the way, their tannins can make the inside of your mouth feel like it’s been shrink-wrapped. Please, please, taste these high acid, high tannin wines with some food to get the full experience.
The wines
#1: Barolo
Barolo is often called Italy’s king of wines and the wine of kings. This nickname originated from the influence of Piedmont’s nobility on Barolo in the mid-1800s. Before then, Barolos were sweet wines that weren’t well known. Which aristocrat hired which enologist to create the dry style of Barolos we know today is up for some debate, but we do know that the House of Savoy’s Carlo Alberto, king of Sardinia and father to the first king of Italy was involved. This involvement meant that Barolos made their post-glow-up debut at royal courts around Italy, then Europe, cementing the moniker.
Barolo wines are made in Piedmont from Nebbiolo, a finicky grape that ripens late and makes wines with an unusually pale color. Barolos often appear reddish orange in the glass, almost brick-colored, and are pale enough to make you think the wine inside will be delicate. Wrong. These wines are known for having some of the highest tannin and acidity levels in the wine world. And its not just their structure. Barolos can also be some of the most intensely fragrant and flavorful wines you’ll ever experience. As the saying goes, don’t judge a book by its cover.
Barolo had its own wine war in the 70s and 80s. At the time, there was one way of making a “real” Barolo, and the rebels who tried new approaches revolutionized Barolo and started family feuds that continue today. These days, there are still some producers who adhere to extremely “traditional” or “modern” winemaking methods, but many choose something in between, so today’s Barolos don’t usually need a decade or more of bottle aging before being ready to enjoy.
What to ask for: Ask by name
Alternative(s): Barolo Riserva, Gattinara, Ghemme, Roero Rosso, Valtellina Superiore, Lessona, Carema, Langhe Nebbiolo
#2: Barbaresco
If Barolos are the king of Italian wines, then Barbarescos are the queen. And like many queens, Barbarescos are often placed in the shadow of the king. But as history has consistently shown us, queens aren’t lesser than, they’re just different. And different is always interesting.
Barbaresco wines are made in Piedmont with the finicky late-ripening Nebbiolo grape, just like Barolos. These wines are pale, usually brick red, and tend to have much more tannin and acidity than you’d expect from a pale wine. Barbaresco isn’t far from Barolo either. The two regions are just about 2 miles (3.2 km) apart, with the river Tanaro splitting from a single river to 3 tributaries as it flows through the hills in between. Barbaresco contains less than half as much vineyard area as Barolo, so these wines can be just a bit more challenging to find. Barbaresco wines age for 2 years before being released for sale, compared to Barolo’s 3 years, which can be considered lesser than or better than, depending on what you prefer.
Only you can decide which is best: the king or queen of Italian wines.
What to ask for: Ask by name
Alternative(s): Barbaresco Riserva, Gattinara, Ghemme, Roero Rosso, Valtellina Superiore, Lessona, Carema, Langhe Nebbiolo
#3: Barbera
Barbera is known for being one of Piedmont’s traditional grapes, but it’s also planted all over Italy and these days, even further afield, in the US, Australia and Argentina. For this tasting, selecting a Barbera from one of the two best-known regions, Asti or Alba, is your best bet to secure a classic Piedmontese example. Barbera d’Asti is a DOCG, which is the highest quality classification for a historic area and wine style in Italy, so the best examples are typically found there.
Barbera wines have a reputation for being one of the best pizza-pairing partners in the wine world, right alongside the famous Sangiovese-based Chianti. And for good reason. Barbera wines are deceptively dark in the glass, so that you might think they’ll be big, bold wines with plenty of structure. Instead, these are juicy wines with plenty of acidity and low to moderate levels of tannin, making them exceedingly food-friendly and generally affordable.
They’re typically fruit-forward, with aromas and flavors of red and black cherries, blackberries and subtle herbs and spices. Some Barbera wines are aged in oak, in which case they’ll typically have flavors like cocoa, nutmeg and clove, too.
What to ask for: Ask by name, preferably a Barbera d’Asti, Barbera d’Asti Superiore, or Barbera d’Asti Superiore Nizza, Tinella or Colli Astiani (the 3 sub-zones of the Barbera d’Asti DOCG)
Alternative(s): Barbera d’Alba Superiore, Barbera d’Alba, Barbera del Monferrato Superiore, Barbera del Monferrato
#4: Dolcetto
Dolcetto roughly translates to “little sweet one,” which is a so-so description for wines that tend to be fruit-forward, offering the perception of sweetness, but with a bittersweet edge to their dry finish. Dolcetto wines, in contrast to Barbera, tend to have low acidity and plenty of chewy tannins. These wines are an inky dark purple in the glass, and are abundantly fruity, with aromas and flavors of dark cherries, blackberries, blueberries, almond liqueur and licorice.
Alba and Dogliani are the two areas best-known today for their Dolcettos, though there are several DOCs for the grape throughout the region. Dogliani, Ovada and Diano d’Alba hold DOCGs for their Dolcetto wines, which is the highest quality classification for a historic area and wine style in Italy.
What to ask for: Ask by name
Alternative(s): Stick with a Dolcetto wine from Piedmont such as a Dolcetto d’Alba, Dolcetto di Dogliani Superiore, Dolcetto di Diano di’ Alba Superiore, Dolcetto d’Ovada Superiore, Dolcetto d’Acqui, Dolcetto d’Asti or Dolcetto delle Langhe Monregalesi
#5: Arneis
In Piedmontese dialect, Arneis is a word for rascals; as in, the kind of people who drive others nuts, rather than the Little Rascals variety. This moniker is thanks to the fact that Arneis vines can be a pain to work with, finicky and prone to disease and pests. Luckily, the wines are delicious enough to be worth the trouble.
Arneis hasn’t always been vinified solo as a white wine, and has only recently experienced a revival. It used to be blended into red wines, even Barolos, much like Viognier is blended into Syrah in the Northern Rhône, to add aromas and texture as well as a softening effect and color stabilization. The Roero, just north of Barolo and Alba, is where Arneis makes its home, an area that has also earned a DOCG for its Roero Arneis wines, which have been recognized as some of Italy’s greatest whites.
Arneis wines tend to be aromatic, with aromas of orange blossom, candied orange peel, white peach and lime. They have moderately high acidity, but they’re not known for being refreshingly zippy white wines, rather, they’re better known for their rich, almost oily texture that swishes across the palate.
What to ask for: Ask by name, preferably a Roero Arneis
Alternative(s): Stick with an Arneis wine from Piedmont, like a Roero Arneis, or Langhe Arneis, Terre d’Alfieri Arneis
#6: Cortese di Gavi
Cortese di Gavi wines are usually just called Gavi or Gavi di Gavi, since Gavi is the DOCG-level region that made them famous, with its sub-zones like Rovereto that are known for their top-quality wines. Cortese is the name of the grape variety, which has been grown in Piedmont since at least the 17th century, considering the evidence that it’s shown up in cellar inventory documents from the Castle Monferrato from 1614.
Cortese wines tend to be subtle, with delicate citrus-y aromas complemented by light floral and even sometimes almond-y or herbal aromas. They’re best known for their steely, almost bitingly crisp acidity. Some Cortese wines will express minerality, often a flintiness or chalkiness. Like many Italian wines, they’re better known for their distinctively vibrant texture and tension on the palate than they are for their flavors per se, so consider how they feel and what they make you want to eat with them even more than what you might smell or taste flavor-wise.
What to ask for: Ask by name
Alternative(s): Stick with a Cortese di Gavi, Gavi di Gavi, Gavi di Tassarolo or other Cortese wines from Piedmont like Cortese dell’Alto Monferrato, Cortese dell’Oltrepò Pavese or Piemonte Cortese
Tasting tips
The eats
If you can afford to splash out on white truffles to top tajarin, risotto or even just scrambled eggs, this is the tasting that will reward your splurge. If that’s not in the cards though, don’t fret. There are plenty of delicious ways to celebrate Piedmont without blowing the budget.
Since the first two wines in this tasting are white, consider serving some snacks first. Even simple crispy Italian breadsticks, grissini, will do the trick here. If you’re practicing your bakes, feel free to bust out a homemade focaccia. Crostinis with dips or individual toppings are always a viable alternative to charcuterie boards, too.
When you move into the reds, know that the Barbaresco and Barolo will be the stars of this tasting…and the wines that most strongly demand food. These are wines whose tannins will essentially shrink wrap your face, drying out your palate like few other grapes can, so serving something meaty to balance things out will give your guests the full experience of how best to enjoy these wines. If you want to go all-in on the traditional dishes, may I suggest tackling a slow-cooking beef recipe like Brasato al Barolo served over polenta, which I will forever think of as Italy’s version of Southern grits. If you already have a solid beef stew or short rib recipe in your wheelhouse, either would be great here, too. And if you’re hosting vegetarian guests, this wild mushroom sauce over polenta sounds downright delish to me.
The prep
Bear in mind that cost-wise, the Barolo and Barbaresco will be the priciest wines of this bunch. In consideration of this, you could ask that your other guests select their wines at the higher end of their respective price ranges, or ask that they bring the snacks, charcuterie or dessert as a way to balance the expenditures. You can also just let your guests choose what they want to spend and let things balance themselves out in your next Wineluck Club tasting together. As the host, the rules are up to you.
Some of these wines will be easy to find, others might take some time, depending on where you live. It’s worth giving your guests at least 2 weeks to find their wines for this tasting.
Encourage your guests bringing white wines to give their wines some pre-tasting fridge time. It’s also a good idea to have an ice bucket ready just in case.
A note on the tasting order: The wines are listed in the order of which should be included first, so that even if there are just 4 wines in the tasting, you’ve got a well-rounded experience ahead. However, I’d suggest switching up the order in which you taste the wines, regardless of how many wines make it in the final cut, as follows:
Cortese di Gavi
Arneis
Barbera
Dolcetto
Barbaresco
Barolo
Sources
Ian D'Agata | Native Wine Grapes of Italy
