Merlot
Vintage image sourced on Pinterest
Since next Friday is Valentine’s Day, this week’s tasting theme is focused a grape variety that produces some of the most plush, velvety wines around: Merlot.
Merlot has been the unfortunate recipient of some hate over the years, especially in 2004’s Sideways, in which main character Miles screams that he’s “not drinking any f*cking Merlot!,” a line that tanked Merlot sales for years afterward in the United States.
If you’re giving Merlot a second (or first) chance, I think you’ll find that many of these wines are like the warm, cozy and always-forgiving cocoon coats of the wine world. Comforting, yet with structure that gives them a simple sophistication in a Scandi style kind of way.
And even if you’re a fellow Valentine’s Day skeptic, a mid-February hug in a bottle shared with people you love sounds pretty good to me.
Stuff to know
Merlot grapevines are from Bordeaux, and while its more famous blending partner, Cabernet Sauvignon, is the better-known Bordeaux variety, Merlot is far and away the most-planted grape in the region.
And yet, Merlot’s reputation still holds a strange dichotomy: renowned, yet reviled. Twenty years after “the Sideways effect” tanked Merlot sales and forced wineries that had been cranking out boringly overripe wines to shift their focus elsewhere, Merlot-based wines like Petrus, Cheval Blanc, Le Pin and Masseto have never been worth more.
While studying in France, my classmates and I took a trip to Bordeaux and visited Château Angélus in Saint-Émilion, smack dab in the heart of the Right Bank. Talk about velvety decadence in a glass, and in such exquisite surroundings, too. When I moved back to the states after graduation, I worked with Pahlmeyer in one of my roles, and I can still remember getting on a call with Cleo Pahlmeyer during which she shared that while they’re famous for their Proprietary Red, it was the Merlot that was the real family favorite. One sip of that wine and it became my favorite Pahlmeyer, too. Later, I got to be part of a sales campaign celebrating Tua Rita by Redigaffi’s 25-year anniversary, which meant sharing the story (and sips) of one of Italy’s greatest Merlots.
Even if I had carried a bias against Merlot, it would never have held up to any of those experiences. If anything, I find it convenient that Merlot’s continued status as Cabernet’s poor relation has made it so that some of California’s - and especially Napa’s - best-value wines are made from Merlot.
Today, Merlot is grown elsewhere in France, too, from Bergerac and Cahors to the Languedoc. In Italy, winemakers are making both monovarietal and blended Merlots in Trentino Alto-Adige, Friuli, Tuscany and Bolgheri. Switzerland, Spain, Austria, Moldova, Bulgaria, Romania and Croatia make wines with Merlot too. Further afield, monovarietal Merlots and Merlot-dominant red blends are made in South Africa, America, Chile, Argentina, Australia and New Zealand.
I will never forget visiting a famous Bordeaux château (whose name I won’t mention) and learning that their top blend was frequently adjusted for the American market so that it would have a higher percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon, while the French market preferred Merlot dominance. Having tasted both, I won’t say no to a top-quality Cabernet, but damn if the French don’t know something about Merlot.
What to look for in this tasting
Since this tasting is just a week before Valentine’s Day, I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention that Merlot wines often have flavors of cocoa powder, milk chocolate, dark chocolate, coffee and espresso beans. Basically mocha madness. However. I’m not promising that every single Merlot will include these flavors, and I can’t help repeating that Merlot wines are dry, tannic wines, not exactly great to drink while eating chocolate itself.
Merlot wines are usually medium-bodied, though they can be bigger in warmer climates or vintages. Like most Bordeaux varieties, Merlots have good acidity and grippy, drying tannins, but instead of being fine-grained like Cabernet Sauvignon’s, Merlot’s tannins tend to feel sticky, almost like clay, or peanut butter, if the thought of eating clay doesn’t exactly connote delicious.
The first thing I always think of when I think of Merlots are plums. Ripe, fleshy, juicy plums. They’re by no means the only fruit you’ll taste in a Merlot wine, but they’re indicative of the texture that tends to come with the fruit: a velvety, silken quality that characterizes Merlot. It’s this distinctive texture that makes Merlot so appealing, even to wine newbies.
Flavors in Merlots can range from red and black plums to blackberries, boysenberries, raspberries, black cherries, blueberries, figs, violets, tobacco leaves, bay leaves, tomato leaves, thyme, mint, eucalyptus, tarragon, fennel, licorice and star anise, truffles, dried mushrooms, wet leaves, vanilla and tonka beans, all before you even get to the range of potential chocolate and coffee flavors. Valentine’s Day darlings, indeed.
The wines
#1: Right Bank Bordeaux
Merlot is by far the most-planted grape variety in Bordeaux, but the region’s famous cru classé wines are mostly Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant and centered around Bordeaux’s Left Bank. Things look a bit different on the right side of the Gironde river, in Bordeaux’s northeastern-most areas, better known as the Right Bank. Here, Merlot and Cabernet Franc claim the spotlight.
Bordeaux wines are almost always blends, and Right Bank Bordeaux are no exception. Merlot is the dominant variety, followed by Cabernet Franc, with a bit of Cabernet Sauvignon. The two appellations to look for in the Right Bank are Pomerol and Saint-Émilion.
Pomerol is a teeny little appellation where some of France’s most prestigious wines are made. There’s no classification system, but it’s safe to say that pretty much any wine from here will be both expensive and outstanding.
Saint-Émilion is larger, and has its own controversial classification system that ranks its wines every decade, the eponymously named Saint-Émilion Grand Cru classification. Confusingly, wines that are labeled “Saint-Émilion Grand Cru AOC” are not within this classification, though they can still be perfectly good wines, some as good as the classified ones. Helpful, right? Instead, wines in the classification are designated Grands Crus Classés or Premier Grands Crus Classés, with an extra “A” tier for the topmost wines. There are some top wineries in Saint-Émilion that have deliberately eschewed the classification system, like Cheval Blanc, Ausone and Angélus, so while the classification can be a helpful guide, it isn’t the only indication of quality.
What to ask for: Ask by name
Alternative(s): Stick with a Right Bank Bordeaux, preferably a Merlot-dominant blend from Pomerol or Saint-Émilion, or satellite appellations like Lalande-de-Pomerol, Montagne-Saint-Émilion or Lussac-Saint-Émilion. Alternative appellations on the Right Bank include the Côtes de Bordeaux: Cadillac, Castillon and Francs.
#2: Italian Merlot
Before the 1980s, Merlot in Italy would have been almost sacrilegious. French grapes on Italian soil, and when there are so many Italian grapes to choose from? Basta. But all things change, and Italian wines are no exception. Today, Masseto by Ornellaia, a single vineyard Merlot, is one of the world’s most sought-after and expensive Italian wines.
Masseto isn’t the only prestigious Italian Merlot, either. Messorio by Le Macchiole, Redigaffi by Tua Rita, Galatrona by Fattoria Petrolo, L’Apparita by Castello di Ama and Volta di Bertinga are just a few more top quality Merlots produced in Bolgheri and Tuscany.
In Tuscany, most wines made from French grapes, regardless of price or prestige, are simply labeled Toscana IGT, a catch-all designation for wines that don’t fall within the region’s more stringent denominations for wines made from native grapes, like Chianti Classico and Brunello di Montalcino. Bolgheri, on the other hand, went from being a coastal region best known for its fruit and vegetables to a jam-packed wine district after Super Tuscans like Sassicaia and Ornellaia entered the scene. Bolgheri’s official denominations are based on French varieties, specifically Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Syrah, with the occasional Sangiovese in the mix.
Further north, winemakers in other regions in Italy make Merlot-based wines, too, particularly in Trentino Alto-Adige and Friui-Venezia Giulia.
What to ask for: Ask by name
Alternative(s): Stick with a Merlot from Italy, preferably 100% Merlot. Labels for these wines could say Toscana IGT, Bolgheri Superiore, Bolgheri Rosso, Suvereto DOCG, Maremma Toscana DOC Merlot, Trentino Merlot DOC, Alto Adige Merlot DOC, Friuli Colli Orientali Merlot DOC, Carso Merlot DOC, or Collio Groiziano Merlot DOC. Look for the grape variety(ies), which are often listed on the back label.
#3: American Merlot
American Merlot took the biggest sales hit after the Sideways effect, though ultimately, it might have been a good thing. In the late 90s, there were plenty of producers capitalizing on Merlot’s then-popularity by making generic, overripe alcohol bombs. Merlot’s large grapes accumulate sugar easily, even when the vines are grown in cool, damp clay soils. In a warm climate or vintage, it can be all too easy to end up with overly ripe grapes with tons of sugar, resulting in boring wines with high alcohol levels.
Luckily, Merlot’s steep popularity decline post-Sideways forced producers to either deliver better quality American Merlots or move on to other potential fads. Today, some of the best value wines in California and Washington State are made from Merlot. To be clear, top American Merlots like Duckhorn’s Three Palms, Andrew Will’s Two Blondes, Mayacamas Merlot, Pahlmeyer’s Merlot, La Jota Vineyard’s Merlot and the Proprietary Red Blend by Amuse Bouche are by no means cheap. There are abundant options at a variety of price points though, and America’s preference for varietal labeling makes them easy to find.
Washington State made a name for itself with its Merlots in the 90s, and is still producing some of the country’s best in regions like Walla Walla Valley, Columbia Valley and it’s sub-region, Wahluke Slope. In California, Merlot thrives in parts of Napa Valley, Sonoma and even the Sideways-maligned Central Coast. On the other side of the country, producers in the Finger Lakes and Long Island are making ever-improving Merlot bottlings, while Virginia, where Bordeaux varieties comprise their best-known blends, offers some single variety Merlots, too.
What to ask for: Ask by name
Alternative(s): Stick with an American Merlot, preferably 100% Merlot
#4: Chilean Merlot
Chile, like Bordeaux, is best-known for its Cabernet Sauvigon-dominant wines, but Merlot is the second-most planted red grape in this long, thin country along the Pacific Coast. Chile has cultivated Bordeaux varieties since the 1850s, though there were some mix-ups along the way. It took until 1994 to discover that winemakers all over Chile had been mis-identifying Carménère, another Bordeaux variety, thinking that it was Merlot. Things have been cleared up, and these days, Chile produces wines made from both varieties in monovarietal and blended red wines.
Chile has a reputation for producing consistently good, if not great, wines that are approachably priced. While there are still plenty of easy-drinking but forgettable wines on the market, there are memorably delectable ones, too. The Colchagua, Maule, Cachapoal, Maipo and Curicó Valleys are regions where producers tend to aim for complexity and structure.
Keep an eye (or nose) out for a distinctive Chilean “green-ness” in these wines, which can be described as anything from green bell pepper and jalepeño to eucalyptus, mint or bay leaf.
What to ask for: Ask by name
Alternative(s): Argentinian Merlot, preferably 100% Merlot
#5: New Zealand Merlot
When we head down to Middle Earth, Merlot makes up only a small percentage of total wine grape plantings, far less than the ever-dominant Sauvignon Blanc or even the increasingly popular Pinot Noir. But it’s still the second-most planted red grape variety, even ahead of its more famous blending partner, Cabernet Sauvignon. In New Zealand, the top region for Bordeaux-style wines is Hawke’s Bay, on the eastern coast of the North Island. Here, much like on Bordeaux’s Right Bank, Merlot dominates, with Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc playing supporting roles. Merlot-dominant blends can also be found in Auckland, Waiheke Island and Marlborough on the South Island.
What to ask for: Ask by name
Alternative(s): Australian Merlot, preferably 100% Merlot or a Merlot-dominant blend
#6: South African Merlot
In South Africa, Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz and even the divisive grape Pinotage out-rank Merlot when it comes to total acreage, but the Merlots and Merlot-dominant blends tend to be very good and often good value, too. Stellenbosch, in the Coastal Region surrounding Cape Town, is the best-known district for Bordeaux-varietal wines, though Merlot wines are also made in Simonsberg-Stellenbosch, Durbanville, Franschhoek Valley, Constantia and Elgin.
In South Africa, both traditional Bordeaux blends and Red Cape blends, in which Pinotage and Rhône varieties are added to the Bordeaux set, are common. If you can’t find a 100% Merlot, look for a Merlot-dominant blend of either style.
What to ask for: Ask by style name
Alternative(s): Stick with a South African Merlot, preferably 100% Merlot or a Merlot-dominant blend
Tasting tips
The eats
Listen, I love chocolate on Valentine’s Day as much as the next person. I can still remember waking up to find little Fannie May heart-shaped chocolate boxes sitting next to cards with our respective names on the kitchen counter each year. But while Merlot wines tend to have flavors of cocoa and chocolate within them, they’re not actually a great match for chocolate. These are dry, tannic wines that pair best with savory foods. Often medium-bodied, many Merlots can handle lighter proteins like tuna, chicken, pork and even salmon. Veg-wise, mushrooms, eggplant, carrots, fennel and olives all work beautifully. And when the Merlots are fuller-bodied, often the case in a warm climate or vintage, it’s always a good idea to bust out the steak, veal or lamb. If it were warmer here, I’d ask my husband to make the utterly simple and always delicious meal of grilled steaks with roasted carrots and potatoes and some béarnaise or an au poivre sauce.
But since I’m still living in my entirely necessary sleeping bag-style puffer coat when stepping outdoors, I’d swap this approach for the oh-so-Swedish and oh-so-cozy dinner of meatballs with butter-drenched mashed potatoes soaked in creamy brown gravy and dolloped with lingonberry jam. Or, if you still have frozen leftovers from Thanksgiving like we do, cranberry sauce.
If you’d prefer to skip all that and just set out charcuterie, try some classics like Cheddar, Gouda and Gruyère or ask your nearest cheesemonger to recommend some local options to pair with salami and sliced saucissons. Even better if they’re thyme- or fennel-spiced.
If you’re still hankering for that Valentine’s Day chocolate and wine pairing, I can highly recommend picking up a fortified red wine to enjoy with chocolate after your tasting and dinner.
The prep
It should be relatively easy to find these wines, though I’d recommend giving your guests at least two weeks depending on where you live. For example, it can be difficult to locate South African Merlot in some parts of the US, and I’ve also found that it’s not the easiest to get certain American producers’ Merlots here in Denmark.
There is a wide range of prices for all of these wines, so it’s up to you as the host to decide if you want to set a price range or let your guests determine what they’re each comfortable spending.
A note on the tasting order: The wines are listed in the order of which should be included first, so that even if there are just 4 wines in the tasting, you’ve got a well-rounded experience ahead. However, I’d suggest switching up the order in which you taste the wines, regardless of how many wines make it in the final cut, as follows:
Right Bank Bordeaux
New Zealand Merlot
Italian Merlot
South African Merlot
Chilean Merlot
American Merlot
Sources
Merlot, Jancis Robinson | Oxford Companion to Wine
