Full-Bodied Savory Reds
Vintage image sourced on Pinterest
In contrast to last week’s full-bodied fruity reds, this week’s tasting is focused on the savory side of big, bold red wines. Now, I get that “savory” is yet another one of those words that when used to describe wine just isn’t entirely clear. In this case, I’m referring to wines that usually do have ripe fruit flavors…but also flavors that lean more floral, herbal, meaty, earthy, spicy or leather-y. These are wines in which the fruit plays in the chorus line, instead of taking center stage. Wines that might not seem immediately attractive, but like your secret crush, reveal themselves more fully on a second (or third) glance.
Body-wise, these wines are all biggies. They have the grape ripeness, alcohol and tannins that stylistically feel more akin stout than IPA on your palate, or whole milk rather than skim. Body is always going to be a weird word for a liquid, but in lieu of a better alternative, we’ll let it slide.
Stuff to know
In contrast to the Full-Bodied Fruity Reds, on the savory side of big reds, we’re exploring single-varietal wines, or wines made from just one grape variety - one that has that little somethin’ somethin’ that warrants a solo act.
Most of these grapes are made from thick-skinned, late-ripening red grapes, which actually tells you quite a bit about the wines.
Thick skins tend to contribute higher amounts of color and tannin to wine, since tannins are polyphenols and color comes from Anthocyanins, a type of polyphenol, both found in grape skins. When there is a high skin-to-juice ratio with these grapes during winemaking, the resulting wines are usually deeply-colored with high levels of tannins.
Late-ripening grapes are risky for winemakers, since lengthy growing seasons mean that there are more chances for things to go wrong, like rot, rain at the wrong time or snack-y animal neighbors taking a bite out of the harvest. But long ripening periods over seasons that aren’t too hot or cold allow the development of complex flavors, too, including flavors that tread into savory territory.
What to look for in this tasting
There will be fruit aromas and flavors in these wines, but they aren’t usually as predominant as in other full-bodied red wines. In these wines, black cherries, blood oranges, blackberries, black currants and the like take a supporting role while aromas and flavors like olives, black tea, violets, dried roses, bacon, smoked turkey, anise, licorice, cinnamon, dried tobacco leaves, mint, rosemary, thyme, clay pots, wet leaves and leather galore round out the cast.
Structurally, most of these wines are on the “high” side of everything. High acidity, high alcohol, high tannin levels. The tannins in particular are worth paying attention to, since some will feel drying, like your face has been shrink-wrapped, while others feel more like a sandpaper-y scrape or a chewy piece of meat texture-wise. In general, the younger the wines are, with more recent vintages on the bottle, the more astringent the tannins will be, though this isn’t a hard and fast rule, since winemakers’ choices in the vineyard and cellar also impact how the tannins will feel when the wines are released for sale.
These are wines that brood almost as much as Heathcliff, and have style to spare while doing it. They are a mood.
The wines
#1: Mourvèdre
Mourvèdre (”moor-veh-druh”) is best known as the “M” in “GSM,” the Grenache-Syrah-Mourvèdre blend that comprises most Southern Rhône reds and their look-alikes in other countries. But Mourvèdre, which also goes by Monastrell in Spain and Mataro in Australia, stands alone on occasion, too.
When I lived in Austin, I was once invited to a tasting to which someone brought a 32-year-old bottle of Domaine Tempier’s Bandol Cuvée Spéciale La Tourtine, a wine that is the essence of Mourvèdre and Provence. If you’ve ever read Kermit Lynch’s Adventures on the Wine Route, you’ll remember this passage: “Domaine Tempier today makes the finest red wine of Provence, but it was not always that way. Up until 1941, the appellation Bandol did not even exist. In the story of the birth of the appellation, and of Lucien Peyraud’s struggle to develop Domaine Tempier into a fine wine, there is all the education one needs into the mysteries of what is involved in creating a fine wine.”
I knew the story of Domaine Tempier going into the tasting, but I’d never before tasted one of their wines with that kind of age. What struck me most was how elegantly humble and honest the wine was. Tasted alongside much more prestigious collector-level wines, the Bandol was like the a great chef’s rendition of a peasant dish. Everything was pure, but simple. Hand-crafted with love. The hardest type of taste to accomplish.
Aside from Domaine Tempier and its role in the creation of Bandol, an appellation where Mourvèdre must comprise at least 50 percent of the wine, there are other regions where Mourvèdre predominates, particularly where Mediterranean climates reign. In Spain’s Jumilla and Yecla regions, wines are made from Monastrell, Mourvèdre’s Spanish moniker, that are intensely dry and savory, though ripe, dark fruit still persists.
Mourvèdres tend to have moderate acidity and thick, coarse tannins that scrape your gums and emphasize the wines’ earthy dryness. These wines taste savory, even though there is plenty of dark fruit, since they are so dry and earthy, often with flavors of Provençal herbs and olives.
What to ask for: A Bandol from Provence or a Monastrell wine from Jumilla or Yecla
Alternative(s): Mourvèdre-dominant wines from Provence or the Southern Rhône, or Mataro from South Australia
#2: Nebbiolo
Nebbiolo (”neb-ee-oh-loh”) is a grape variety that is best known in the forms of Barolo and Barbaresco, regions in Piedmont that are the king and queen of Italian wines. There are other regions in and around Piedmont making Nebbiolo-based wines, too, though: Valtellina, Gattinara and Ghemme in particular are becoming increasingly popular, especially considering their attractive price-to-quality ratio.
Nebbiolo, like Pinot Noir, is a finicky grape that isn’t easy to grow, but makes wines whose quality and individuality reach heights that make all the trouble worth it. At least, I like to think so, as the happy recipient of hardworking winemakers’ efforts.
Nebbiolo makes wines with an unusually pale color. The wines appear reddish orange in the glass, almost brick-colored, and are pale enough to make you think the wine inside will be delicate. Wrong. These wines are known for having some of the highest tannin and acidity levels in the wine world. And its not just their structure. Nebbiolo wines can be some of the most intensely fragrant and flavorful wines you’ll ever experience. As the saying goes, don’t judge a book by its cover.
Nebbiolo wines, and Barolos in particular, are often described as having aromas of roses and tar. Personally, I’ve smelled both dry and fresh roses in Barolos, and even the occasional tar, reminiscent of recent road work baking in the scorching Texas sun, but I’ve also tasted many Barolos, Barbarescos and Langhe Nebbiolos that have neither of those scents or flavors within. What I do consistently find is a juxtaposition of heady aromas and ripe fruit with drying, shrink-wrap-your-face-style tannins that sound horrible but somehow just work, especially when paired with meaty or fatty foods. Look out for hauntingly beautiful aromas and flavors of blood orange, sour cherry, mint, rosemary, sage, eucalyptus, licorice, aniseed, truffles and leather.
What to ask for: Ask for a wine made from Nebbiolo like a Barolo, Barbaresco, Barolo Riserva, Gattinara, Ghemme, Roero Rosso, Valtellina Superiore, Lessona, Carema or Langhe Nebbiolo
Alternative(s): Stick with one of the options listed above
#3: Tannat
Like Chile’s Carmenère and Argentina’s Malbec, Tannat (”tah-naht”) is a grape native to Southwestern France that made its way over to South America thanks to immigration, and has since become even more popular in its new homeland, Uruguay, than in France.
Madiran is Tannat’s original home, south of Bordeaux and northwest of the Pyrenees, in a part of France where the region’s wines were enjoyed by medieval pilgrims making their trek through to Santiago de Compostela. In Madiran, Tannat must comprise 60-80 percent of vineyards, with Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and local grape Pinenc (AKA Fer Servadou) making up the remainder of the blend. Historically, these wines were so tannic that it was unpleasant to drink them young, but winemakers have experimented and adopted techniques that make the wines less abrasive upon release, while retaining their capacity for long aging.
In Uruguay, Tannat has become the country’s flagship grape, with plantings in all of the country’s wine regions. There are traditionally produced red wines, but there are also rosé and even sparkling wines made from Tannat. Much like in Madiran, there are rich, dark wines that are oak aged and have plenty of mouth-drying tannins that can take years to soften, but there are also styles that are more gently managed in the cellar to make them easier to drink upon release. Either way, Tannat’s dark purple color and dense black fruit flavors tend to shine through, along with meaty, spicy and earthy aromas like game, licorice and fresh potting soil, and the signature hearty tannins will make their appearance known, even when intentionally softened in the cellar.
What to ask for: Ask for a Madiran from France or Tannat from Uruguay
Alternative(s): Tannat-based wines from France’s St-Mont or Irouléguy, Chile, Argentina, Brazil, Australia or the United States
#4: Sagrantino
Umbria is one of those Italian wine regions that reminds you that pretty much all of Italy is a wine region, even if not all of them are world-famous. Umbria lies in the center of Italy, and in the center of Umbria, there’s a small town called Montefalco, which sounds like it could be the name of a very fast car.
Montefalco Sagrantino (”sah-gran-tee-noh”) has been a DOCG, Italy’s highest classification for a wine region, since the 90s, though wines have been made here from the local Sagrantino grape since ancient times, possibly even Pliny the Elder’s era. Back then though, sweet wines were all the rage, so today’s dry red wine style wouldn’t have been appreciated. Modern Sagrantino wines are quite possibly Italy’s most tannic wines, with even more tannin than France’s Tannat.
In a recent blind tasting, I tried a 12-year-old Sagrantino that still had drying, sandy tannins that almost fooled me into thinking the wine was young, though scents of prune and visible sediment told me the wine had some age on it. Still, there were pretty aromas of red plums, blood oranges and vanilla blossoms that felt fresh and enticing.
Winemakers today make traditional Sagrantinos that can be aggressively tannic upon release, meant to age before being consumed, but also approachable styles that are structured without the need for lengthy cellar time. Sagrantino wines’ tannins, though huge, tend to be polished, rather than rustic, and they’re complemented by rich, dark fruit and herbal aromas like rosemary and sage that feel like drinking a moody still life from a Dutch Old Master.
What to ask for: Ask for a Montefalco Sagrantino
Alternative(s): Montefalco Rosso or a Sagrantino-based wine from another town in Umbria, or a Sagrantino wine from Australia or the USA
#5: Aglianico
In Southern Italy, around the arch of the boot, Campania and Basilicata compete for the prestige of making the world’s best Aglianico (”ah-lee-ah-nee-coh”) -based wines. In Campania, Taurasi is the best-known DOCG, Italy’s highest wine classification, though Taburno Aglianico is a lesser-known but equally prestigious DOCG. In Basilicata, Aglianico del Vulture holds a DOC, while the Superiore version claims a DOCG. Either way, Aglianico wines are considered some of Italy’s best, even if they’re not as famous as their Nebbiolo- and Sangiovese-based counterparts.
Aglianico is thought to be one of Italy’s oldest grape varieties, planted since Roman times. It’s not entirely clear where the grape originated, though some believe that the grape was brought over by Greeks, with its name derived from the word “ellanico” (Hellenic) or “agleukinosicos” (wine without sugar).
Aglianico wines have naturally high acidity and powerful tannins, and the grapes grow best in their warm southern home in predominantly volcanic soils, where they can fully ripen well into late autumn before harvest, which can be as late as the end of November.
Much like with other high-tannin grape varieties, modern winemakers make varying styles from Aglianico: traditional ones that are best enjoyed after they’ve had time to age and soften, as well as juicy, lighter wines whose tannins are softened by winemaking techniques before release. Either way, Aglianico wines tend to be deeply colored with sandy tannins, piercing acidity and flavors of dark plums, roses and sour cherries complemented by leather, Mediterranean herbs, incense and smoke.
What to ask for: Ask for a Taurasi, Taburno Aglianico or Aglianico del Vulture
Alternative(s): Cilento, Sannio, Galluccio or other Aglianico-based wines from other parts of Italy, Australia or the USA
#6: Xinomavro
Xinomavro (”zee-noh-mahv-roh”) is probably best known today for being a poor man’s Barolo. The comparison isn’t exactly flattering, but there’s usually a kernel of truth in most sayings. In Xinomavro’s case, being a Greek grape variety hasn’t done the wine’s prices any favors, since Greek wine suffered internationally from years of tourists’ ideas of pine resin-flavored Retsina representing the whole of modern Greek wine. It also didn’t help that most Greek winemakers packaged their wines with Greek letters on their labels, rather than using the more widely accessible English language and lettering. Today’s winemakers have adjusted to market demands, and are making wines with their native grapes like the world has never seen before, even if prices and prestige haven’t quite caught up yet.
Xinomavro wines get their comparison to Barolo from their pale, brick-red color and contrastingly large structure. High, grippy, grainy tannins and lithe acidity are juxtaposed with sweetly ripe red fruit flavors and abundant aromas of fresh herbs, dried tobacco leaves, olives and spices.
If you thought of beaches when you thought of Greek wine, in Xinomavro’s case, you’d be wrong. These grapes grow throughout central and northern Greece, and shine in the mountainous parts of Macedonia, particularly Naoussa and Amynteo.
What to ask for: Ask for a Xinomavro wine from Naoussa or Amynteo
Alternative(s): Stick with a Greek Xinomavro
If you enjoyed these wines and are looking to explore more full-bodied savory reds, check out Spanish Baga, dry Douro reds from Portugal, especially those with Touriga Nacional, and Côt from Southwestern France, made from Malbec.
Tasting tips
The eats
Most of these wines have abundant tannins, sometimes even aggressive ones that scrape your tongue, cheeks and gums with each sip. The foods you choose to pair with these wines should be equally bold, with rich, fatty textures that soften the tannic grip. Bacon, peppercorn salami, roast chicken with plenty of drippings or a coq au vin and pretty much anything beef-related should work a treat. For the veggie-forward, lean into umami, selecting veggies like mushrooms or eggplants, grilled or pan-fried to add that smoky caramelization the Maillard reaction brings, or go all-in on cheesiness, with gussied-up macaroni and cheese or grilled cheese sandwiches. Personally, I prefer an ugly delicious slow-roasted stew with these wines, especially while the skies are still grey here and my sleeping bag-style puffer coat is still in daily use.
Charcuterie-wise, smoked and peppery meats are ideal, along with briny olives and peppery, garlicky or herby crackers and breads. Aged, hard cheeses with nutty crystals like Pecorino, Grana Padano and Gouda stand up beautifully, though smoky cheeses like smoked cheddar, especially aged, act like echos of the smoky flavors in the wines. Dried fruit, fresh berries, nuts, honey and jams can also add the brightness and acidity you might crave when diving into all things savory, peppery and smoky.
The prep
Some of these wines might take some hunting, depending on where you live, since they’re not the most popular or widely available styles. Many of the wines are also best when drunk with some age on them, so it might take extra time for your guests to find the ideal versions of each wine. Aim to give your guests two to three weeks to find their wines before gathering.
Price-wise, these wines can range from being very inexpensively priced to being full-on expensive. It’s up to you as the host to decide if you’d like to set a spending range, or if you’d prefer to let your guests determine what they’re each comfortable spending on this tasting.
A note on the tasting order: The wines are listed in the order of which should be included first, so that even if there are just 4 wines in the tasting, you’ve got a well-rounded experience ahead. However, I’d suggest switching up the order in which you taste the wines, regardless of how many wines make it in the final cut, as follows:
Mourvèdre
Xinomavro
Nebbiolo
Aglianico
Tannat
Sagrantino
Sources
D'Agata, Ian | Native Wine Grapes of Italy
Madiran | Jancis Robinson’s Oxford Companion to Wine
