French Reds
Vintage image sourced from Pinterest
French reds. Les vins rouges. Some of the most esoteric, expensive and imitated wines in the world. But also some of the most exuberant, relaxed and accessible. Wines from Burgundy and Bordeaux are considered the crème de la crème of the wine auction world, with bottle prices that can rival luxury cars. But those same regions have a myriad of delicious options at affordable prices too. This is a tasting theme that’s full of contradictions, and the good news is that there are enough options out there, so you can decide how deep to go.
Stuff to know
French wines are mostly named by the place they’re from, rather than by the grape(s) they’re made with. There are exceptions to this rule (aren’t there always?), but it’s still one of the most important things to understand when exploring French wines.
Those French place names on the bottle tell you more than just which type of grape the wine is made from. In the United States, a wine labeled Cabernet Sauvignon, one of France’s best-known grape varieties, could be grown anywhere in the country, and could be grown in a hot valley and made using oak chips in stainless steel tanks, or could be grown on a chilly but sunny mountaintop and made with expensive new French oak barrels. There’s a massive range of styles, and the only way to know which is which is to do some research and/or ask. In France, by contrast, the Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée/Protégée (AOC/AOP) system regulates much more than just which grape is used. Minimum alcohol levels, vine planting density, whether or not a grower can water their vines, and whether, how long and in which style of vessel a winemaker can age their wines are all regulated.
This might sound restrictive, but I think it helps to consider that the AOC/AOP system allows wine styles to function much like brands. Their names tell us what to expect. Of course there is variation from producer to producer and vintage to vintage, but the regulations mean that we can begin to understand these styles of wines pretty quickly, even if the foreign naming conventions and AOC/AOP system might seem intimidating at first.
Worth noting: While French reds are often thought of as expensive, age-worthy wines, there are plenty of enjoyable young wines that are affordable and accessible worldwide. The selections can easily get overwhelming though, especially since price doesn’t always equal quality, so this is one of those tastings where asking your local retailer for recommendations couldn’t hurt.
What to look for in this tasting
One of the clichés of French wine descriptions is calling a wine masculine or feminine. I’ve reviled this practice…and I’ve also used it on occasion. Yup, I’m a human with flaws and occasionally hypocritical behavior. I’m also allowed to change my mind.
That said, I do feel that some French reds, especially some Burgundies, defy easy description, and the best I’ve come up with in certain moments was that a particular wine felt somehow pretty, delicate, floral, subtle…or “feminine.” On the flip side, that another wine felt strong, structured, bold, meaty, spicy…”masculine.” As a 5’10” (178cm) woman with bold features, the kind of physical strength that served me well in competitive weightlifting and boxing and experiences living in several foreign cultures, I really have zero business using these cliché crutches that do nothing to support the reality that gender just isn’t so black and white. But I will acknowledge that these wines aren’t black and white either, and they’re often just really difficult to describe.
Don’t be surprised if you, too, resort to strange word choices to articulate what you’re experiencing. Plush, velvety, tight, tired, scratchy, soft, chunky, chalky, drying, bright, lively, strong. It’s not unusual to reach beyond typical taste descriptors. French reds are generally intended to showcase terroir, that half-translated word that means much more than just the land where the grapes are grown. You might taste earthy flavors and textures, like chalk, dried leaves, soil, metal, mushrooms. You might taste smoky, meaty flavors that sound kind of gross as wine descriptors, like blood, bacon or roast chicken. You might taste floral elements like violets and roses. You might focus on how the tannins feel, trying to describe where and how they dry out your tongue, lips and cheeks. My best advice is to just go with it, however awkward or “wrong” it might feel. The only way to “improve” your ability to describe what you taste is to just keep trying, and I can’t imagine a task more enjoyable.
The Wines
#1: Left Bank Bordeaux
This is the region of Bordeaux where the famous 1855 classification of grand cru classé took place. Sauternes was also ranked, along with Chateau Haut-Brion in Graves, but for the most part, the Left Bank was where the classification’s focus was aimed. Prices drove the classification of 60 châteaux, which are ranked from first growth (premier cru) down to fifth growth (cinquième cru)…and not much has changed since 1855. Is that fair? Is it an accurate reflection of the producers’ quality today? I can’t really say. There’s a lot of debate. Nevertheless, the Left Bank remains home to some of the world’s most desirable and imitated red wines. And the good news is that there is plenty of wine produced, so you don’t have to pay first growth prices to enjoy a quality Left Bank Bordeaux. The wines here will be made from Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, though some of the other Bordeaux blend grapes could make an appearance too: Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Carmenère and Malbec. Vintages can vary widely in Bordeaux, so ask your local retailer to help ensure your bottle is ready to enjoy.
What to ask for: Left Bank Bordeaux, and then expect to share your target spend
Alternatives: Stick with Left Bank Bordeaux AOC options like Saint-Estèphe, Pauillac, Saint-Julien, Margaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc, Listrac-Médoc or Moulis
#2: Red Burgundy
Red Burgundy, AKA Bourgogne Rouge. When the French say Bourgogne Rouge, they are always referring to red wines made with Pinot Noir, which originated in Burgundy.
Unfortunately, Burgundy isn’t as simple as “Bourgogne Rouge.” Burgundy is the wine world’s most complex region. French wines are named by the place they’re from, and well, no place in France gets more specific in that naming than Burgundy.
There are 4 quality levels for all Red Burgundy wines, starting with Bourgogne Rouge, which refers generally to all red Burgundy wines and is the name of the regional appellation, meaning that the grapes in a bottle of “Bourgogne Rouge” can be from anywhere in the Burgundy region. These are the least expensive Red Burgundies. From there, quality levels go from Village, to Premier Cru, then Grand Cru, which are the most expensive.
It isn’t easy to remember which appellations are which and what the names mean. Even for those of us who study these things in depth, it’s tough. When you layer on vintage variation and all of the different producers in Burgundy…it can feel overwhelming.
All of this to say that you don’t need to get into that level of nerdiness if you don’t want to. Ask your local retailer to guide you to the right Red Burgundy for your Wineluck Club tasting based on what you want to spend.
What to ask for: Red Burgundy, and then expect to share your target spend
Alternative(s): Stick with any Red Burgundy from the Côte d’Or or Côte Chalonnaise. On the label, this could include regional wines like “Bourgogne,” often with more words afterward, or Village wines, like these from the Côte d’Or: Gevrey-Chambertin, Chambolle-Musigny, Volnay, Morey-Saint-Denis, Nuits-Saint-Georges, Vosne-Romanée, Aloxe-Corton, Pommard, Vougeot, Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune, Chorey-lès-Beaune, Côte de Beaune, Côte de Beaune-Villages, Fixin, Marsannay, Santenay, Ladoix, Maranges, Auxey-Duresses, Monthélie, Blagny, Pernand-Vergelesses, Saint-Aubin, Saint-Romain, or Chassagne-Montrachet.
…or these from the Chalonnaise: Givry, Mercurey, Rully
#3: Beaujolais
Beaujolais is technically part of Burgundy today, but it wasn’t always. In 1395, Philip the Bold, one of the powerful Dukes of Burgundy, decreed that Gamay was forbidden in Burgundy. The banished Gamay grapevines were relegated to Beaujolais, the region south of the prestigious Côte d’Or, where granitic soils restricted its vigorous growth. This actually turned out to be lucky for Beaujolais, because Gamay makes truly beautiful wines in those granite soils. As in most French wine regions though, there are quality levels worth understanding. Cru Beaujolais sits at the top, hailing from one of 10 different crus in the northern part of the region. Beaujolais-Villages is next, followed by the plainly named Beaujolais, which includes the rest of the region.
Beaujolais Nouveau is its own thing, and if you’ve ever tasted it at a Thanksgiving dinner and decided to pass on all Beaujolais wines, please give them another chance. Beaujolais Nouveau wines undergo a special type of fermentation and are quickly finished and bottled to be released for sale by the third Thursday in November, which I can tell you firsthand is a really fun day to live in Burgundy and celebrate that “le Beaujolais Nouveau est arrivé!” These early-release wines were a marketing gimmick that has since become a holiday, and they’re made in a style that isn’t doing Beaujolais any favors from a quality reputation standpoint. Whether you love them or hate them, please know that Beaujolais is much more than Nouveau.
What to ask for: Ask by name
Alternatives: Stick with Beaujolais from one of the 10 crus (Saint Amour, Juliénas, Chénas, Moulin-à-Vent, Fleurie, Chiroubles, Morgon, Régnié, Brouilly, Côte de Brouilly), Beaujolais-Villages or Beaujolais
#4: Northern Rhône
The Rhône Valley, cut through by the Rhône river, is so different in the north and south that for all intents and purposes, they are two separate wine regions. In the north, Syrah is the most planted grape variety, and many vineyards are on slopes so steep that vines must be carefully tended by hand. It’s a workout just walking in these vineyards. These determined producers in the northern Rhône make just 5% of all the wines produced in the Rhône Valley.
Each of the northern Rhône AOCs has its own rules, and the AOCs best known for their red wines include the Côte-Rôtie, Saint-Joseph, Crozes-Hermitage, Hermitage and Cornas. In some of these AOCs, a small percentage of white grapes, such as Viognier, Marsanne or Roussane, are allowed in the blend, but most producers today use 100% Syrah.
Note: Syrah is also known as Shiraz, but will always go by Syrah in the Rhône Valley.
What to ask for: A Northern Rhône, and then expect to share your target spend
Alternatives: Stick with a Northern Rhône wine from the Côte-Rôtie, Saint-Joseph, Crozes-Hermitage, Hermitage or Cornas. Consider a Collines Rhodaniennes, and look for one with 100% Syrah on the label, if you have a lower target spend.
#5: Southern Rhône
The southern Rhône’s most famous appellation is Châteauneuf-du-Pape, with its iconic papal coat of arms and the two keys embossed into each glass bottle. But there are more than 23 different appellations in the region, and about 95% of Rhône Valley wines come from the southern Rhône. There are plenty of options here. In contrast to the northern Rhône, most wines here are blends. GSM is the shorthand for the most common blend: Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre. Wines have been made here since antiquity, which was very clear to me when I walked through Avignon’s well-preserved Roman amphitheater. You’ll find that prices vary widely across styles and producers, so this is one where your local retailer’s recommendations would be welcome.
What to ask for: A Southern Rhône, and then expect to share your target spend
Alternatives: Stick with any wine from the Southern Rhône, including Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Gigondas, Vacqueyras, Lirac, Vinsobres, Ventoux, Luberon, Costières de Nimes, Rasteau, Cairanne, Côtes du Rhône Villages or Côtes du Rhône
#6: Right Bank Bordeaux
Bordeaux’s Left Bank might have the majority of the top châteaux, but there are several that consistently command top prices sitting over on the right side, further inland from the Atlantic. That said, you don’t have to buy Petrus to experience great Right Bank Bordeaux. On the right bank, Merlot dominates instead of Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc tends to play a bigger supporting role than it does on the left side. The right bank also has its own classification system, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé. This system re-classifies producers every decade based on quality, so you’d think it would be less debated than the 1855 system on the left bank…but that isn’t the case at all. Luckily, there are plenty of beautiful wines over on this side north of the Dordogne river, classified or not. Vintages can vary widely in Bordeaux, so ask your local retailer to help ensure your bottle is ready to enjoy.
What to ask for: Right Bank Bordeaux, and then expect to share your target spend
Alternatives: Stick with Right Bank Bordeaux AOC options like Saint-Émilion, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru, Pomerol, Lalande-de-Pomerol, Fronsac, Canon Fronsac, Montagne Saint-Émilion, Lussac-Saint-Émilion, Puisseguin Saint-Émilion, Saint-Georges Saint-Émilion or Côtes de Bordeaux
Tasting tips
The eats
Most of the time, I’m doing great if I upgrade my professional tasting-style complement of bread only as a palate cleanser/fortifier to some decently arranged charcuterie boards. But if I wanted to really go all in on food for this tasting, I’d look to meat or mushroom-based dishes, especially rich options with wine- or cream-based sauces that give you plenty to work with to alter the texture and tannins of these wines in your mouth, so you can experience a pleasantly dramatic before/after of these wines with and without food.
The old “what grows together, goes together” adage is always a good rule of thumb, but it doesn’t hurt to branch out from French dishes into classics like grilled steak and roasted potatoes or more adventurous choices like buttery sautéed foraged mushroom toasts. If you go with the simplicity of a charcuterie board, consider including varied meats like slices of saucissons or chicken liver pâté. If I could still eat cheese, I’d add some Morbier, Mimolette and perhaps some nutty aged Gouda, the kind with plenty of crystal formation. I’d also be likely to use this tasting as an excuse to consume copious amounts of good bread and French demi-sel butter - the kind with the flakes of salt sprinkled throughout.
The prep
The French reds included here should be easy to find, but can vary hugely in price. As the host, you can decide whether to give your guests a target spend range to keep everyone around the same budget, or to allow your guests to decide what is appropriate based on their own personal budgets. I don’t think there’s a right or wrong approach here, just that it’s important to know that expenditures can vary dramatically.
A note on the tasting order: The wines are listed in the order of which should be included first, so that even if there are just 4 wines in the tasting, you’ve got a well-rounded experience ahead. However, I’d suggest switching up the order in which you taste the wines, regardless of how many wines make it in the final cut, so that you’re starting with the leanest, most subtle wines and ending with the fullest, as follows:
Beaujolais
Red Burgundy
Northern Rhône
Southern Rhône
Right Bank Bordeaux
Left Bank Bordeaux
If you want to dive deeper into the Rhône after this tasting, check out Rhône Reds.
